Todd Morrill: Tham, I don't know what sort of vehicle you are working on or the amount of
wear inside the engine. Perhaps a compression test might let you know
better as the source of oil fouling. All cylinders should be within 10% or
less of each other. If the cylinder that is fouling plugs is low on
compression it could be a sign of worn out piston rings or worn cylinder
bore. Give it a couple of squirts of oil from an oil can and recheck
compression (after doing dry compression test) to see if it goes up. It
might be time for an overhaul.
Todd Morrill: I went with compressor pressure hose directly to the cylinder, might want
to put a couple of squirts of oil into the cylinder first to lessen air
loss past the rings.
chris77777777ify: I like the video about keeping the head on. Looks like a lot easier
William Seeback: Thanks for making such a practical and simple video explaining how to do
this. Right to the point, and clearly demonstrated. Only enough
"jibber-jabber" to explain what to do. That keeps us focused on the actual
task at hand. Good job. VERY good job! If only everyone who made a "how to"
video made them this simple and actually DEMONSTRATED what they were doing,
we'd all be in much better shape for it. Keep it up!
ThamMalaysia: It is possible that good quality Viton seals might give way after just
six months ?
I had the mechanic replace all the seals with Vitons. However, after
just about six months, the second cylinder's spark plug started getting
oil fouled again.
The mechanic says he can't just replace only one cylinder's seals, but all
of them again. This won't come cheap.
Pappa Kosta: Thanks for the video.
Oakydokes: Todd, thanks a bunch for the video. As Jason was asking below, how much
pressure? And since you had no pressure in your demo, will pressure be
released when we remove the seal? Cautions?
lou30088: As an ASE Master Tech, I use a Snap-on tool that you hit with a
hammer. You just put a few folded rags under the valve. I also use valve
seal pliers so I don't scratch the valve stem. If you scratch the valve
stems, the new seals will leak. Clean the valve stems and apply new clean
oil to them, then dip the new valve seals in new clean oil before you
install them. Make sure that all the valves go back where they came from.
This is very important.
BRUCE LEE: I had a sludge,carbin,varnish motor 2004 cavalier.
More compression and sludge removed over months with MARVEL MYSTERY
OIL.....Uncle is an old mechanic.Runs like a new motor ??
Dallas Sutton: You left the installation tool on the guide before you put spring back on.
Jason Fisher: I am going to be doing this on a 1991 S-10 with a 4.3. I have one question
and that is... How much air pressure do I apply inside the cylinder?
678friedbed: Thanks for the video you have one of the more informational videos on here
about this. Is that an FE head?
samsnoodle: Thanking you for your knowledge and instruction, gonna give it a go on my
car soon. Very natural video :)
Ninz306: Great work!
Edgars Baumanis: ha ha ha
Alanna Vang: hi is there a certain pattern of doing this?
Debbie Norman: Do you have a video other than this one that would help...or give step by
MrShriepshroepshrap: hello,when do you need to replace your seal,what dos the car?when you now
you must replace your seals? greetz end how you now witch seal is bad ?
Todd Morrill: I might try removing the engine mount on that side and lower the engine to
get enough room to use a valve spring compressor
Todd Morrill: nah, ya take off the seal guide and then install the spring, retainer and
keepers back on. Use it over on all the other valves, I might have slipped
it off right after the installation of the seal otherwise I couldn't have
installed the keepers.
Todd Morrill: Not if done correctly but on some engines you may have to remove the heads
to replace valve springs or seals, depends on your make - model - engine.
There is more than one way to skin a cat...I've heard about threading a
rope in through the spark plug hole to hold the valve in place while
removing the spring or seal assembly. I'd be afraid of the rope tangling
and then I couldn't remove it. The demonstration was for a push rod engine,
you might need a different method for your engine.
Paul Mall: Wouldn't you wan't the piston at bottom not top dead center. if the piston
is at top dead center when you hook up the air it will be forced to the
bottom spinning the engine over and if you have the timing belt off you
could actually crash valves
iz954: The best valve seal video. Look no further. Thanks guy. You just made my
SACTOWN OG: Dude, Knowledge is power, and money saving. thank you for the refresher
rhino986: Im doing this to 92 Voyager.. I failed Emissions High hydrocarbons up in
the 1800 range I am thinking its the valve stem seals but not sure.
Debbie Norman: We have a 1976 ford f100 390 engine...the valve spring is broke on the
passenger side by firewall...an air conditioner box is in the way...any
suggestions on how to replace the spring without removing the head? THERE
IS NO ROOM TO WORK!?
scitzz: Are you supposed to leave the installation tool that you used to guide the
new valve on like that?
ragweed123: You made thats so much harder on yourself... It's called a socket and a
Lalo Herrera: you could damage our valves doing that buddy
Todd Morrill: could be oil going past the piston rings, do a compression test dry and wet
to see if there is a change in psi, you shouldn't have more than 20%
difference and I prefer to see less than 10% difference. If you have spark
plugs getting fuel fouled you will need a carb rebuild/replced. Make sure
you have the right spark plugs for your year/model/engine and the gap is
set right. If it is only 1 cylinder with problems then it's probably not a
carb issue. You could have mechanical problems.
laurajdahl: If I replace the valve seals in my 76 cj7 with 258 engine... Will the spark
plugs stop getting oily wet residue? OR could the problem be the carb
floods and cause the spark plugs to get oily wet ? Thanks for the video! :)
Burr Street: what state r u in?
Carl Williams: Great video! So, he forgot to remove the tool. It is a demonstration. You
can use clothesline to hold up the valves. It's safer than air. Leave some
hanging out. Get the piston on TDC. Otherwise, he's right.
Todd Morrill: you can remove the valve cover, which you must have already done to see
which one is broken...taking apart would be the easy part. Big block FE
fords have a rocker shaft that runs length of the head. Remove that, you
could put air in the cylinder to hold the valves up. Tap on the valve
spring retainer and and the keepers should release. The spring is broken
and should come apart pretty easily, installing the new spring will be the
challenge, have to find a way to compress the new spring.
Todd Morrill: if it's an overhead cam engine (timing belt) you would have already removed
the rockers to gain access to the valve and maybe even removed the
camshaft. At this point your valves are at the fully seated position, no
chance of hitting a piston. Bottom dead center is ok but if you lose air
pressure for any reason the valve is taking a trip into the cylinder, then
you will have to remove the cylinder head.
worthypoo: Just start and end with TDC.
worthypoo: I would rotate the crank for each sets of valves, one/two piston(s) at a
time, so the piston is at the top. That way if pressure is lost the valve
doesn't fall. A valve resting on the piston won't harm anything. A valve
falling inside means changing head gasket. Only issue is knowing which
piston is up. Look down the sparkplug hole for that. Nice video.
How to replace valve seals on your engine4.6
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