berk arslan: If I knew how to take the top off, why would I be watching this video?
Pinky I: Know anyone in NJ or NY who can do this type of work?
chris77777777ify: I like the video about keeping the head on. Looks like a lot easier
Pappa Kosta: Thanks for the video.
William Seeback: Thanks for making such a practical and simple video explaining how to do this. Right to the point, and clearly demonstrated. Only enough "jibber-jabber" to explain what to do. That keeps us focused on the actual task at hand. Good job. VERY good job! If only everyone who made a "how to" video made them this simple and actually DEMONSTRATED what they were doing, we'd all be in much better shape for it. Keep it up!
Todd Morrill: Tham, I don't know what sort of vehicle you are working on or the amount of wear inside the engine. Perhaps a compression test might let you know better as the source of oil fouling. All cylinders should be within 10% or less of each other. If the cylinder that is fouling plugs is low on compression it could be a sign of worn out piston rings or worn cylinder bore. Give it a couple of squirts of oil from an oil can and recheck compression (after doing dry compression test) to see if it goes up. It might be time for an overhaul.
ThamMalaysia: It is possible that good quality Viton seals might give way after just six months ?
I had the mechanic replace all the seals with Vitons. However, after just about six months, the second cylinder's spark plug started getting oil fouled again.
The mechanic says he can't just replace only one cylinder's seals, but all of them again. This won't come cheap.
Oakydokes: Todd, thanks a bunch for the video. As Jason was asking below, how much pressure? And since you had no pressure in your demo, will pressure be released when we remove the seal? Cautions?
BRUCE LEE: I had a sludge,carbin,varnish motor 2004 cavalier.
More compression and sludge removed over months with MARVEL MYSTERY OIL.....Uncle is an old mechanic.Runs like a new motor ??
lou30088: As an ASE Master Tech, I use a Snap-on tool that you hit with a hammer. You just put a few folded rags under the valve. I also use valve seal pliers so I don't scratch the valve stem. If you scratch the valve stems, the new seals will leak. Clean the valve stems and apply new clean oil to them, then dip the new valve seals in new clean oil before you install them. Make sure that all the valves go back where they came from. This is very important.
Todd Morrill: I went with compressor pressure hose directly to the cylinder, might want to put a couple of squirts of oil into the cylinder first to lessen air loss past the rings.
Jason Fisher: I am going to be doing this on a 1991 S-10 with a 4.3. I have one question and that is... How much air pressure do I apply inside the cylinder?
Ninz306: Great work!
678friedbed: Thanks for the video you have one of the more informational videos on here about this. Is that an FE head?
Dallas Sutton: You left the installation tool on the guide before you put spring back on.
Edgars Baumanis: ha ha ha
samsnoodle: Thanking you for your knowledge and instruction, gonna give it a go on my car soon. Very natural video :)
Alanna Vang: hi is there a certain pattern of doing this?
Todd Morrill: I might try removing the engine mount on that side and lower the engine to get enough room to use a valve spring compressor
Todd Morrill: you can remove the valve cover, which you must have already done to see which one is broken...taking apart would be the easy part. Big block FE fords have a rocker shaft that runs length of the head. Remove that, you could put air in the cylinder to hold the valves up. Tap on the valve spring retainer and and the keepers should release. The spring is broken and should come apart pretty easily, installing the new spring will be the challenge, have to find a way to compress the new spring.
How to replace valve seals on your engine5
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