Rick Nolan: How long does 5 gallon burn for?
longshorts3: Nicely done, and inexpensive. This is the way I've done it for over 30
years. I never used a sight glass, but eyeballed it coming into my drum
stove. Natural convection from the chimney drew the smoke right out of the
heater, no forced air was ever needed. I also drew outside air to feed the
stove by putting a pipe into the bung of the drum stove. Great fishing camp
and garage heater!
lamberto fierro: Doesn't the heat burn or cake up the oil running inside the feed tube
before it drips to the center of the fire?
Alain Saaiman: That is a horrible design. I can't believe that the creator actually sells
these plans online. He also uses flawed science to try to explain its
efficiency and safety. Take a look at some of the other designs online. I
have a design modified from an old popular burner found online, mine has
proved very efficient.
Ian Elia: @breakfastbentobox. Dude your retarded. All fuel oils and waste oils
(diesel, kerosene, filtered waste oils, hydolic oil, transmission fluids,
non-waste oil, ect) all are non combustible liquid fuels. And put out over
75% less carbon emmisions then wood, coal,(which I'm Proud to say I burn
both in my wood/coal stove and getting ready to add a #1-#2 fuel oil stove
which is diesel and kerosene) and natural gas,
HerosComment: I don't get it, are you heating your house with dirty oil or something? Is
that the objective and where are you picking up the dirty oil?
Somedood200: very nice... i gave up on mine. had issues with back-drafts on windy days.
i was even using a 3" chimney. i think it was placement on roof in wrong
spot? (where chimney cap was) and too many air intakes, i kept adjusting
them thinking it would stop the back-drafts. almost passed-out a couple
times. i will build something like yours if i do it again. straight chimney
is the way to go! i even had a fish pump for fuel, diesel engine used oil
seemed to burn best for me.
Jay Kinkade: @suzukimark Roger Sanders sells an eBook that has complete plans for the
heater plus a lot of other useful tips and tricks. Do a Google search for
his name and waste oil heater, you'll find it right away.
David devor: I made one very simaler almost the same as this, Looks good.. have you done
any updates since your vidoe ? Im going to start on myne agin i quit
working on it for a few .
trailbusterbrute: @ding0925 I'll answer this one. I found one at Grainger for $37, part
povchrisw: where did you get that valve?.. looks good.. best design iv seen yet
Jay Kinkade: @povchrisw Bought it from a guy named Roger Sanders for $50.00, he sells
the valves and the aluminum conical burners by mail order, PM me if you
want his email or just do a Google search.
AJollyGoodFelon: I'm making one of these, my other thing I am doing is a rainwater capture
system, perhaps installed in the attic to provide natural water pressure.
The city just catches rainwater and sells it to you, then they give it to
cops to harass you and take more money. Contrary to popular belief,
rainwater is 100 % better than city. My tests showed 1 part per million
contaminants in rain gutter water, compared to 350 ppm on city water, and
170ppm filtered fridge water.
karmicmessenger: I built one of these heaters and have been using it in my sleeping space
for over 8 years now. My biggest concern was pollution and after years of
tinkering and tweaking I have come to a couple of conclusions; one, the
bigger the diameter of the intake the better, and two, the calmer the
puddle of oil the better. you should either move the drip tube so it drips
near the edge of the plate or run a wire from your tube to the plate so the
oil can slide down the wire and not create too many waves.
Wayne Torrey: I need to know how the fire and exhaust does not shoot out the intake and
alternatively goes out the flue. According to some designs (yours as well I
think) the intake cone rest down on the burner separated by a few inches
and is supposed to drawn air down onto the burner and allow fire up the
sides of the stove and out the flue. What keeps the fire in?
Jay Kinkade: @alaskanalain I've never seen a non-modified Mother Earth News Waste Oil
Heater (The original design on their web site) so I can't really speak to
the difference. I have always assumed from reading Roger Sanders articles
and other sites on the internet that the "Modified" heaters burned cleaner
and more efficiently. From my experience building and operating the heater
in this video, vaporization (drip feed) heaters produce a lot of soot and
smoke. Check atomization (babington) heaters.
Jay Kinkade: @xrt3xrt3 On high it burns 5 to 6 liters an hour.
Jay Kinkade: @memadmax69 It gets toasty, if you crank it up it will glow red hot about 8
to 10 inches above and below the burner. Because it's a radiant heater it
puts off a warm fuzzy kind of heat that is very pleasant, although it does
take sometime to bring a space up to a comfortable temp.
Jay Kinkade: @thierryanna It's about 5.5 inches between the burner plate and the bottom
of the air intake pipe. The air intake pipe is 4", you need to look for a
40 gallon tall, gas powered water heater, some of them have 3" flues and
some have 4". The four inch ones are known as high capacity models. Finding
one of these will save you lots of time cutting and modifying since the
pipe is already the right size. For the oil feed line I used a piece of
1/8" steel brake line from the local auto parts store.
Steve Madden: I have tried many ways to get a clean burn , try directing the air flow
towards the flame through a small copper tube and adjust accordingly to get
the right amount of air flow for a clean burn , more oil plus more air =
more heat and hope fully clean burn , i experimented useing an air
compressor first to get the flow, hope this helps cheers...
lumberjak5010: I have found that preheating the burner with a propane weed burner really
gets the draft going with the door open and I can start with WMO instead of
heating oil. My WMO drips from four feet above the burner area through a
3/4" copper tube. There can be no flashback since there isn't enough heat
or oxygen in the tube. good vid.
vic g v: do after nine drops of oil, the tenth drop - water and dirt will be removed
alaskanalain: How well does it work compared to the original mother earth heater? I'm
building one but I don't see how this design can work well compared to the
original with the air preheated and the burner plates that has a secondary
burner built in. When I read the blurb for the conical design and that it
burns cleanly by not burning completely I shook my head and laughed. Does
it work well and burn all it's own smoke and soot?
trailbusterbrute: @trailbusterbrute Wait a minute. I found it. It's a 15 degree inverse cone.
Jay Kinkade: It's a super simple design and it works great. No worries about the oil in
the bottom of the heater. I took a screwdriver and wiped it across the top
of the burner to get the ash from the paper towel out of the oil pool after
it was started and some oil spilled . The only place hot enough to ignite
the oil is on the burner. It's very safe.
Jay Kinkade: @JackMurphyMallow No I bought the conical burner from Roger Sanders, it was
karmicmessenger: the same thing happened with mine until I increased the diameter of the
intake pipe and extended the length of my exhaust pipe; now if it ever goes
out(and it never does until I shut off the oil) it just shuts off with no
unpleasant effects. I sleep with it on in my room and there has never been
a single incident of smoke or soot. I will make a video of it as I am most
satisfied with its performance. I've modified it to burn wood or oil or
both if I want.
vettepiper: @jahzoone I'd appreciate Roger's E-mail address. I'm wanting to build on of
these heaters using a 24" sch 40 pipe. I would need the valve and conical
plate and am maybe the filter also. Thanks!
trailbusterbrute: Do you know the angle of the reverse cone in the burner plate?? I've got
some aluminum. I've got a lathe. Would cast iron be better for the cone
burner? It's cold here and I've got an old water heater. Need to make
Jay Kinkade: @torr58 Correct me if this is wrong, but the way I understand it, Fire
needs Air to burn and when the fire is started at the burner it sucks the
air in from the closest place, which is from the fresh air pipe positioned
right above it (intake). The fire and the smoke can't go up the intake
because the air is being sucked in, so the smoke goes out the flu. As far
as fire going out the flu the fire never gets that big, because the fuel is
metered to be just enough for the burner area.
sking0369: My MENS oil burner looks close to this one. I had is in my basement heating
my house. I found if you control the air going into the top you can reach
stochiometric, or a place where it puts out the most heat and least smoke.
Using an infrared thermometer I was seeing 800-900 deg.F. BUT... there is a
teribly touchy maintaning stochiometric. I vented it up a non-dedicated
chimney and when the draft changed and I would flame out and belch soot
backwards into the basement.
Jay Kinkade: @vettepiper I sent you a PM with the email.
Jay Kinkade: Google, "granger 1U795", there around $43
Jerry Rosa, Sr.: I also would like to know where you got the drip needle valve with the
sight window that thing is awesome! Rosastringworks@Gmail.com
Junk Yard: Where did you get that needle valve with sight glass? Neat setup.
MrCraz6r: nice job
Jay Kinkade: Those both sound like excellent improvements and they make sense, all that
splashing in the pool disrupts even combustion and the more air the better.
I guess the intake has some sweet spot, are you saying just open the whole
4" intake pipe?
Jay Kinkade: @thierryanna A butane bottle should work fine, I look forward to hearing
how the project is progressing. If I can offer any suggestions let me know
David Redmon: Where did you get the drip valve with the site glass?
Legen dary: hi, how many liters per hour ?
kf4awu: @ding0925 Google: Sight Feed Needle Valve, note they are pricey.
johncartelli: the site feed needle valve looks like the old drip oilers that were used to
lubricate babbit bearings..
suzukimark: i would realy like to make one of these,,,where can i get a set of
Jerry Rosa, Sr.: Sorry, I just found your answer about the valve.
karmicmessenger: this is a naturally aspirated design, and the only way you could increase
air velocity is with a suction fan at the exhaust side, otherwise you get
problems. it does not respond well to blowers (I've tried every
configuration I could think of too)
Jay Kinkade: @dispatcher7007 It's not as bad one might think, it's a little worse when
the heater is first lit, after it warms up it burns pretty clean. I made
another video showing the chimney from outside the building, Checkout my
channel for Drip Feed Waste Oil Heater Smoke Test.
freepress666: Looks easy to do, notice some oil dipping below burner, could get explosive
if not cleaned.
Jay Kinkade: @dpdevil1 I made this one for a friend so I haven't done anything else to
it once it was finished. It was a fun project perhaps at some point I will
build another one. I'd like to try a forced air type with a Babington waste
MeMad Max: Nice, how warm does she get? Warm enough to get some steam going?
dispatcher7007: could you show the exhaust? I guess you've got quite a dirty combustion
going on there!