Drip Feed Waste Oil Heater




What do you think about this video?

Rick Nolan: How long does 5 gallon burn for?

longshorts3: Nicely done, and inexpensive. This is the way I've done it for over 30 years. I never used a sight glass, but eyeballed it coming into my drum stove. Natural convection from the chimney drew the smoke right out of the heater, no forced air was ever needed. I also drew outside air to feed the stove by putting a pipe into the bung of the drum stove. Great fishing camp and garage heater!

lamberto fierro: Doesn't the heat burn or cake up the oil running inside the feed tube before it drips to the center of the fire?

Alain Saaiman: That is a horrible design. I can't believe that the creator actually sells these plans online. He also uses flawed science to try to explain its efficiency and safety. Take a look at some of the other designs online. I have a design modified from an old popular burner found online, mine has proved very efficient.

Ian Elia: @breakfastbentobox. Dude your retarded. All fuel oils and waste oils (diesel, kerosene, filtered waste oils, hydolic oil, transmission fluids, non-waste oil, ect) all are non combustible liquid fuels. And put out over 75% less carbon emmisions then wood, coal,(which I'm Proud to say I burn both in my wood/coal stove and getting ready to add a #1-#2 fuel oil stove which is diesel and kerosene) and natural gas,

HerosComment: I don't get it, are you heating your house with dirty oil or something? Is that the objective and where are you picking up the dirty oil?

Somedood200: very nice... i gave up on mine. had issues with back-drafts on windy days. i was even using a 3" chimney. i think it was placement on roof in wrong spot? (where chimney cap was) and too many air intakes, i kept adjusting them thinking it would stop the back-drafts. almost passed-out a couple times. i will build something like yours if i do it again. straight chimney is the way to go! i even had a fish pump for fuel, diesel engine used oil seemed to burn best for me.

Jay Kinkade: @suzukimark Roger Sanders sells an eBook that has complete plans for the heater plus a lot of other useful tips and tricks. Do a Google search for his name and waste oil heater, you'll find it right away.

David devor: I made one very simaler almost the same as this, Looks good.. have you done any updates since your vidoe ? Im going to start on myne agin i quit working on it for a few .

trailbusterbrute: @ding0925 I'll answer this one. I found one at Grainger for $37, part number 1U795.

povchrisw: where did you get that valve?.. looks good.. best design iv seen yet

Jay Kinkade: @povchrisw Bought it from a guy named Roger Sanders for $50.00, he sells the valves and the aluminum conical burners by mail order, PM me if you want his email or just do a Google search.

AJollyGoodFelon: I'm making one of these, my other thing I am doing is a rainwater capture system, perhaps installed in the attic to provide natural water pressure. The city just catches rainwater and sells it to you, then they give it to cops to harass you and take more money. Contrary to popular belief, rainwater is 100 % better than city. My tests showed 1 part per million contaminants in rain gutter water, compared to 350 ppm on city water, and 170ppm filtered fridge water.

karmicmessenger: I built one of these heaters and have been using it in my sleeping space for over 8 years now. My biggest concern was pollution and after years of tinkering and tweaking I have come to a couple of conclusions; one, the bigger the diameter of the intake the better, and two, the calmer the puddle of oil the better. you should either move the drip tube so it drips near the edge of the plate or run a wire from your tube to the plate so the oil can slide down the wire and not create too many waves.

Wayne Torrey: I need to know how the fire and exhaust does not shoot out the intake and alternatively goes out the flue. According to some designs (yours as well I think) the intake cone rest down on the burner separated by a few inches and is supposed to drawn air down onto the burner and allow fire up the sides of the stove and out the flue. What keeps the fire in?

Jay Kinkade: @alaskanalain I've never seen a non-modified Mother Earth News Waste Oil Heater (The original design on their web site) so I can't really speak to the difference. I have always assumed from reading Roger Sanders articles and other sites on the internet that the "Modified" heaters burned cleaner and more efficiently. From my experience building and operating the heater in this video, vaporization (drip feed) heaters produce a lot of soot and smoke. Check atomization (babington) heaters.

Jay Kinkade: @xrt3xrt3 On high it burns 5 to 6 liters an hour.

Jay Kinkade: @memadmax69 It gets toasty, if you crank it up it will glow red hot about 8 to 10 inches above and below the burner. Because it's a radiant heater it puts off a warm fuzzy kind of heat that is very pleasant, although it does take sometime to bring a space up to a comfortable temp.

Jay Kinkade: @thierryanna It's about 5.5 inches between the burner plate and the bottom of the air intake pipe. The air intake pipe is 4", you need to look for a 40 gallon tall, gas powered water heater, some of them have 3" flues and some have 4". The four inch ones are known as high capacity models. Finding one of these will save you lots of time cutting and modifying since the pipe is already the right size. For the oil feed line I used a piece of 1/8" steel brake line from the local auto parts store.

Steve Madden: I have tried many ways to get a clean burn , try directing the air flow towards the flame through a small copper tube and adjust accordingly to get the right amount of air flow for a clean burn , more oil plus more air = more heat and hope fully clean burn , i experimented useing an air compressor first to get the flow, hope this helps cheers...

lumberjak5010: I have found that preheating the burner with a propane weed burner really gets the draft going with the door open and I can start with WMO instead of heating oil. My WMO drips from four feet above the burner area through a 3/4" copper tube. There can be no flashback since there isn't enough heat or oxygen in the tube. good vid.

vic g v: do after nine drops of oil, the tenth drop - water and dirt will be removed

alaskanalain: How well does it work compared to the original mother earth heater? I'm building one but I don't see how this design can work well compared to the original with the air preheated and the burner plates that has a secondary burner built in. When I read the blurb for the conical design and that it burns cleanly by not burning completely I shook my head and laughed. Does it work well and burn all it's own smoke and soot?

trailbusterbrute: @trailbusterbrute Wait a minute. I found it. It's a 15 degree inverse cone.

Jay Kinkade: It's a super simple design and it works great. No worries about the oil in the bottom of the heater. I took a screwdriver and wiped it across the top of the burner to get the ash from the paper towel out of the oil pool after it was started and some oil spilled . The only place hot enough to ignite the oil is on the burner. It's very safe.

Jay Kinkade: @JackMurphyMallow No I bought the conical burner from Roger Sanders, it was around $50.

karmicmessenger: the same thing happened with mine until I increased the diameter of the intake pipe and extended the length of my exhaust pipe; now if it ever goes out(and it never does until I shut off the oil) it just shuts off with no unpleasant effects. I sleep with it on in my room and there has never been a single incident of smoke or soot. I will make a video of it as I am most satisfied with its performance. I've modified it to burn wood or oil or both if I want.

vettepiper: @jahzoone I'd appreciate Roger's E-mail address. I'm wanting to build on of these heaters using a 24" sch 40 pipe. I would need the valve and conical plate and am maybe the filter also. Thanks!

trailbusterbrute: Do you know the angle of the reverse cone in the burner plate?? I've got some aluminum. I've got a lathe. Would cast iron be better for the cone burner? It's cold here and I've got an old water heater. Need to make fire....

Jay Kinkade: @torr58 Correct me if this is wrong, but the way I understand it, Fire needs Air to burn and when the fire is started at the burner it sucks the air in from the closest place, which is from the fresh air pipe positioned right above it (intake). The fire and the smoke can't go up the intake because the air is being sucked in, so the smoke goes out the flu. As far as fire going out the flu the fire never gets that big, because the fuel is metered to be just enough for the burner area.

sking0369: My MENS oil burner looks close to this one. I had is in my basement heating my house. I found if you control the air going into the top you can reach stochiometric, or a place where it puts out the most heat and least smoke. Using an infrared thermometer I was seeing 800-900 deg.F. BUT... there is a teribly touchy maintaning stochiometric. I vented it up a non-dedicated chimney and when the draft changed and I would flame out and belch soot backwards into the basement.

Jay Kinkade: @vettepiper I sent you a PM with the email.

Jay Kinkade: Google, "granger 1U795", there around $43

Jerry Rosa, Sr.: I also would like to know where you got the drip needle valve with the sight window that thing is awesome! Rosastringworks@Gmail.com

Junk Yard: Where did you get that needle valve with sight glass? Neat setup.

MrCraz6r: nice job

Jay Kinkade: Those both sound like excellent improvements and they make sense, all that splashing in the pool disrupts even combustion and the more air the better. I guess the intake has some sweet spot, are you saying just open the whole 4" intake pipe?

Jay Kinkade: @thierryanna A butane bottle should work fine, I look forward to hearing how the project is progressing. If I can offer any suggestions let me know :)

David Redmon: Where did you get the drip valve with the site glass?

Legen dary: hi, how many liters per hour ?

kf4awu: @ding0925 Google: Sight Feed Needle Valve, note they are pricey.

johncartelli: the site feed needle valve looks like the old drip oilers that were used to lubricate babbit bearings..

suzukimark: i would realy like to make one of these,,,where can i get a set of plans.....chears

Jerry Rosa, Sr.: Sorry, I just found your answer about the valve.

karmicmessenger: this is a naturally aspirated design, and the only way you could increase air velocity is with a suction fan at the exhaust side, otherwise you get problems. it does not respond well to blowers (I've tried every configuration I could think of too)

Jay Kinkade: @dispatcher7007 It's not as bad one might think, it's a little worse when the heater is first lit, after it warms up it burns pretty clean. I made another video showing the chimney from outside the building, Checkout my channel for Drip Feed Waste Oil Heater Smoke Test.

freepress666: Looks easy to do, notice some oil dipping below burner, could get explosive if not cleaned.

Jay Kinkade: @dpdevil1 I made this one for a friend so I haven't done anything else to it once it was finished. It was a fun project perhaps at some point I will build another one. I'd like to try a forced air type with a Babington waste oil burner..

MeMad Max: Nice, how warm does she get? Warm enough to get some steam going?

dispatcher7007: could you show the exhaust? I guess you've got quite a dirty combustion going on there!

Rating:
Drip Feed Waste Oil Heater 4.7 out of 5

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