Jerry Rosa, Sr.: Sorry, I just found your answer about the valve.
Jerry Rosa, Sr.: I also would like to know where you got the drip needle valve with the sight window that thing is awesome! Rosastringworks@Gmail.com
Jay Kinkade: Google, "granger 1U795", there around $43
Junk Yard: Where did you get that needle valve with sight glass? Neat setup.
karmicmessenger: this is a naturally aspirated design, and the only way you could increase air velocity is with a suction fan at the exhaust side, otherwise you get problems. it does not respond well to blowers (I've tried every configuration I could think of too)
karmicmessenger: the same thing happened with mine until I increased the diameter of the intake pipe and extended the length of my exhaust pipe; now if it ever goes out(and it never does until I shut off the oil) it just shuts off with no unpleasant effects. I sleep with it on in my room and there has never been a single incident of smoke or soot. I will make a video of it as I am most satisfied with its performance. I've modified it to burn wood or oil or both if I want.
karmicmessenger: yes, an oil flame can never have too much air; it can only have too much air velocity which can blow it out. I put a similar baffle like the one you put on the top, but I placed mine on the bottom of the intake so it allows a little air to the center of the flame and a bunch of air to the sides (I suspended it on wires). and all that oil which is splashing and falling out of your plate is wasted as smoke. My heater gets red hot with a puddle of 2-3" diameter.
Jay Kinkade: Those both sound like excellent improvements and they make sense, all that splashing in the pool disrupts even combustion and the more air the better. I guess the intake has some sweet spot, are you saying just open the whole 4" intake pipe?
karmicmessenger: I built one of these heaters and have been using it in my sleeping space for over 8 years now. My biggest concern was pollution and after years of tinkering and tweaking I have come to a couple of conclusions; one, the bigger the diameter of the intake the better, and two, the calmer the puddle of oil the better. you should either move the drip tube so it drips near the edge of the plate or run a wire from your tube to the plate so the oil can slide down the wire and not create too many waves.
HerosComment: I don't get it, are you heating your house with dirty oil or something? Is that the objective and where are you picking up the dirty oil?
Spook50: Shut the freak up. Ignorant, hypocritical sack of trash.
sking0369: My MENS oil burner looks close to this one. I had is in my basement heating my house. I found if you control the air going into the top you can reach stochiometric, or a place where it puts out the most heat and least smoke. Using an infrared thermometer I was seeing 800-900 deg.F. BUT... there is a teribly touchy maintaning stochiometric. I vented it up a non-dedicated chimney and when the draft changed and I would flame out and belch soot backwards into the basement.
Steve Madden: I have tried many ways to get a clean burn , try directing the air flow towards the flame through a small copper tube and adjust accordingly to get the right amount of air flow for a clean burn , more oil plus more air = more heat and hope fully clean burn , i experimented useing an air compressor first to get the flow, hope this helps cheers...
chopperking1122: it looks just like mine , but even using an adjustable fan to speed along combustion , it friggin stinks ! It set off my neighbours smoke alarm , its just a drip feed type set up . If you live in a semi rural area , with a tall chimney reaching to the heavens it O.K , but....I look into it and can see the oil burning , but theres just all this smoke , its like an oil burning steam locomotive ! It works good except for the smoke ! I cant subject my neighbours to that !
johncartelli: the site feed needle valve looks like the old drip oilers that were used to lubricate babbit bearings..
MrCraz6r: nice job
kf4awu: Google: Sight Feed Needle Valve, note they are pricey.
Jay Kinkade: Roger Sanders sells an eBook that has complete plans for the heater plus a lot of other useful tips and tricks. Do a Google search for his name and waste oil heater, you'll find it right away.
suzukimark: i would realy like to make one of these,,,where can i get a set of plans.....chears
Jay Kinkade: It's not as bad one might think, it's a little worse when the heater is first lit, after it warms up it burns pretty clean. I made another video showing the chimney from outside the building, Checkout my channel for Drip Feed Waste Oil Heater Smoke Test.
dispatcher7007: could you show the exhaust? I guess you've got quite a dirty combustion going on there!
Jay Kinkade: It gets toasty, if you crank it up it will glow red hot about 8 to 10 inches above and below the burner. Because it's a radiant heater it puts off a warm fuzzy kind of heat that is very pleasant, although it does take sometime to bring a space up to a comfortable temp.
frackcha: "Thanks for polluting the air my kids breath, prick." [sic]
sitting at a computer, in a house that probably has both heating and air con, and complaining about pollution... priceless... thanks for that!!!
MeMad Max: Nice, how warm does she get?
Warm enough to get some steam going?
Ian Elia: @breakfastbentobox.
Dude your retarded. All fuel oils and waste oils (diesel, kerosene, filtered waste oils, hydolic oil, transmission fluids, non-waste oil, ect) all are non combustible liquid fuels. And put out over 75% less carbon emmisions then wood, coal,(which I'm Proud to say I burn both in my wood/coal stove and getting ready to add a #1-#2 fuel oil stove which is diesel and kerosene) and natural gas,
Ian Elia: @breakfastbentobox
trailbusterbrute: Wait a minute. I found it. It's a 15 degree inverse cone.
trailbusterbrute: Do you know the angle of the reverse cone in the burner plate?? I've got some aluminum. I've got a lathe. Would cast iron be better for the cone burner?
It's cold here and I've got an old water heater. Need to make fire....
trailbusterbrute: I'll answer this one. I found one at Grainger for $37, part number 1U795.
mikeusername1: If operating a waste oil furnace illegally, the money you anticipate in energy savings can be quickly lost. Burning waste oil that contains hazardous heavy metals or other pollutants also negates any environmentally-friendly and energy-efficient benefits offered by the furnace.
David Redmon: Where did you get the drip valve with the site glass?
lumberjak5010: I have found that preheating the burner with a propane weed burner really gets the draft going with the door open and I can start with WMO instead of heating oil. My WMO drips from four feet above the burner area through a 3/4" copper tube. There can be no flashback since there isn't enough heat or oxygen in the tube. good vid.
Jay Kinkade: Correct me if this is wrong, but the way I understand it, Fire needs Air to burn and when the fire is started at the burner it sucks the air in from the closest place, which is from the fresh air pipe positioned right above it (intake). The fire and the smoke can't go up the intake because the air is being sucked in, so the smoke goes out the flu. As far as fire going out the flu the fire never gets that big, because the fuel is metered to be just enough for the burner area.
torr58: I need to know how the fire and exhaust does not shoot out the intake and alternatively goes out the flue. According to some designs (yours as well I think) the intake cone rest down on the burner separated by a few inches and is supposed to drawn air down onto the burner and allow fire up the sides of the stove and out the flue. What keeps the fire in?
Jay Kinkade: No I bought the conical burner from Roger Sanders, it was around $50.
Somedood200: very nice... i gave up on mine. had issues with back-drafts on windy days. i was even using a 3" chimney. i think it was placement on roof in wrong spot? (where chimney cap was) and too many air intakes, i kept adjusting them thinking it would stop the back-drafts. almost passed-out a couple times. i will build something like yours if i do it again. straight chimney is the way to go! i even had a fish pump for fuel, diesel engine used oil seemed to burn best for me.
Jay Kinkade: I've never seen a non-modified Mother Earth News Waste Oil Heater (The original design on their web site) so I can't really speak to the difference. I have always assumed from reading Roger Sanders articles and other sites on the internet that the "Modified" heaters burned cleaner and more efficiently. From my experience building and operating the heater in this video, vaporization (drip feed) heaters produce a lot of soot and smoke. Check atomization (babington) heaters.
alaskanalain: How well does it work compared to the original mother earth heater? I'm building one but I don't see how this design can work well compared to the original with the air preheated and the burner plates that has a secondary burner built in. When I read the blurb for the conical design and that it burns cleanly by not burning completely I shook my head and laughed. Does it work well and burn all it's own smoke and soot?
perjan6666: Hi take a look at my homemade waste oil burner it is easy to fire.
this is prototyp 1 and it have some smoke but i have made prototyp 3 now and it is very clean.
Jay Kinkade: On high it burns 5 to 6 liters an hour.
Legen dary: hi, how many liters per hour ?
AJollyGoodFelon: I'm making one of these, my other thing I am doing is a rainwater capture system, perhaps installed in the attic to provide natural water pressure. The city just catches rainwater and sells it to you, then they give it to cops to harass you and take more money. Contrary to popular belief, rainwater is 100 % better than city. My tests showed 1 part per million contaminants in rain gutter water, compared to 350 ppm on city water, and 170ppm filtered fridge water.
Jay Kinkade: @thierryanna A butane bottle should work fine, I look forward to hearing how the project is progressing. If I can offer any suggestions let me know :)
Jay Kinkade: @thierryanna It's about 5.5 inches between the burner plate and the bottom of the air intake pipe. The air intake pipe is 4", you need to look for a 40 gallon tall, gas powered water heater, some of them have 3" flues and some have 4". The four inch ones are known as high capacity models. Finding one of these will save you lots of time cutting and modifying since the pipe is already the right size. For the oil feed line I used a piece of 1/8" steel brake line from the local auto parts store.
Jay Kinkade: I made this one for a friend so I haven't done anything else to it once it was finished. It was a fun project perhaps at some point I will build another one. I'd like to try a forced air type with a Babington waste oil burner..
David devor: I made one very simaler almost the same as this, Looks good.. have you done any updates since your vidoe ? Im going to start on myne agin i quit working on it for a few .
Jay Kinkade: I sent you a PM with the email.
vettepiper: I'd appreciate Roger's E-mail address.
I'm wanting to build on of these heaters using a 24" sch 40 pipe.
I would need the valve and conical plate and am maybe the filter also.
izzzya: do after nine drops of oil, the tenth drop - water and dirt will be removed
Jay Kinkade: Bought it from a guy named Roger Sanders for $50.00, he sells the valves and the aluminum conical burners by mail order, PM me if you want his email or just do a Google search.