RWE WRESTLING: Do u have facebook acct? i wanna contact u about some question ?
Bill Ritchie: @BuckarooCoyote I have used as thick as 16 gauge and as thin as 24 gauge. I think 16 is about the maximum. BTW, I don't use PNP any more, it leaves holes and I could never figure out why. Besides, it's expensive compared to silicon coated paper, which is almost free. It comes with address labels, for example, and I'm experimenting with the backing from Contact Paper. I recommend the other videos on "silitransfer" etching.
trygvie: What gauge of sheet metal does the laminator machine allow?
Bill Ritchie: @BuckarooCoyote Hi - did I say I tack it on? I shouldn't have, because the laminator is so hot that anything like tape etc would melt. I don't tack it on - sorry about that. I just (1) warm the brass, but not too hot, maybe 150-200 degrees. The metal has to heat, so pre-heat it first. (2) I place the laser print/silicon paper face down on the brass. If it's too hot to handle, I rest it on a piece of wood until I can stand it; then dextrously insert the two in the slot to the rollers.
BuckarooCoyote: You say you tack it to your brass plate. What are you using to tack it on with to avoid the laminator from shifting the image off the brass?
WorldofGlassCraft: Heat Press !!!!!
WorldofGlassCraft: I am glad I found this video, thanks for the share. The size of your potential etch is limited by the width the kaminator can take . I was wondering if a Heat oress would do the same job as the laminator. Have you use this principle of larger items at all please?
Bill Ritchie: @Geddiz - Yer right, there is no shifting. I run it through several times to be sure it heats the metal enough to stick. Actually I never use PNP any more 'cause it leaves mysterious holes in the solid areas I have to touch up with resists. Now I use laser print on silicon coated paper (silipaper) and that method is on YouTube, too, y'know. -B
Geddiz: Wow, never thought to use a laminator, I've been using a clothes iron! :D
Reckon a laminator gives a more consistant transfer and reduce the risk of the transfer paper shifting?
sewingnutter: Thanks :)
I'm trying Sterling Silver with Ferric Nitrate and I'm hitting a brick wall all the time... I must be doing something wrong! I've got the PNP but I'm going to have a go with the "silipaper" Your facebook page is great!
Bill Ritchie: I made up the name for "silicon-coated" paper (to be cute). Silipaper is that almost universal way of making backing-sheets for things like mailing labels and other pull-apart, self-adhering materials. NOTHING sticks to silicon, so when you print laser toner on it, it's going to transfer when you heat it up on a metal plate. Thanks for the good question!
sewingnutter: THANKS so much. Your badges look amazing.....You say you use Silipaper now.....I'm an Aussie, so could you explain what it is!!
Bill Ritchie: Thanks, miajnorway! However, I don't use PNP anymore, I use laser transfer on "silipaper" (silicon coated paper left over from label paper). I still use the laminator, but I never use PNP blue any more. I'd take it off YouTube except for sentimental reasons, "HOW I USED TO ..."
PS Are you in Norway?
mia johannessen: wow!
Bill Ritchie: Thanks - I've actually found the silicon paper method to be better - fewer or no "Spotting". Yes, laminator is indispensible and I got one! Wow.