sewingnutter: Thanks :) I'm trying Sterling Silver with Ferric Nitrate and I'm hitting a
brick wall all the time... I must be doing something wrong! I've got the
PNP but I'm going to have a go with the "silipaper" Your facebook page is
Bill Ritchie: Thanks - I've actually found the silicon paper method to be better - fewer
or no "Spotting". Yes, laminator is indispensible and I got one! Wow.
terrybrake: doesn't work on silver, another etchant is needed.
mia johannessen: wow!
Bill Ritchie: @Geddiz - Yer right, there is no shifting. I run it through several times
to be sure it heats the metal enough to stick. Actually I never use PNP any
more 'cause it leaves mysterious holes in the solid areas I have to touch
up with resists. Now I use laser print on silicon coated paper (silipaper)
and that method is on YouTube, too, y'know. -B
BuckarooCoyote: You say you tack it to your brass plate. What are you using to tack it on
with to avoid the laminator from shifting the image off the brass?
WorldofGlassCraft: I am glad I found this video, thanks for the share. The size of your
potential etch is limited by the width the kaminator can take . I was
wondering if a Heat oress would do the same job as the laminator. Have you
use this principle of larger items at all please?
trygvie: What gauge of sheet metal does the laminator machine allow?
Geddiz: Wow, never thought to use a laminator, I've been using a clothes iron! :D
Reckon a laminator gives a more consistant transfer and reduce the risk of
the transfer paper shifting?
terrybrake: sewingnutter: I believe ferric chloride works only on the brass or copper,
not silver. We used nitric acid in college. Not someting for home use,
altho I did it until my supply ran out. Look for the electro etching
methods on youtube or elsewhere
WorldofGlassCraft: Heat Press !!!!!
Bill Ritchie: I made up the name for "silicon-coated" paper (to be cute). Silipaper is
that almost universal way of making backing-sheets for things like mailing
labels and other pull-apart, self-adhering materials. NOTHING sticks to
silicon, so when you print laser toner on it, it's going to transfer when
you heat it up on a metal plate. Thanks for the good question!
Bill Ritchie: @BuckarooCoyote I have used as thick as 16 gauge and as thin as 24 gauge. I
think 16 is about the maximum. BTW, I don't use PNP any more, it leaves
holes and I could never figure out why. Besides, it's expensive compared to
silicon coated paper, which is almost free. It comes with address labels,
for example, and I'm experimenting with the backing from Contact Paper. I
recommend the other videos on "silitransfer" etching.
sewingnutter: THANKS so much. Your badges look amazing.....You say you use Silipaper
now.....I'm an Aussie, so could you explain what it is!! Thanks
Bill Ritchie: Thanks, miajnorway! However, I don't use PNP anymore, I use laser transfer
on "silipaper" (silicon coated paper left over from label paper). I still
use the laminator, but I never use PNP blue any more. I'd take it off
YouTube except for sentimental reasons, "HOW I USED TO ..." PS Are you in
Bill Ritchie: @BuckarooCoyote Hi - did I say I tack it on? I shouldn't have, because the
laminator is so hot that anything like tape etc would melt. I don't tack it
on - sorry about that. I just (1) warm the brass, but not too hot, maybe
150-200 degrees. The metal has to heat, so pre-heat it first. (2) I place
the laser print/silicon paper face down on the brass. If it's too hot to
handle, I rest it on a piece of wood until I can stand it; then dextrously
insert the two in the slot to the rollers.