J Ruggero: No matter how you cut it, someone sells a lot of parts! and that's the idea
I guess. Call it a forced economy. I think I remember the older gm cars by
jumping the underdash connector a certain way ,the pcm would cycle all the
system components. Now why don't they incorporate that anymore? Oh I
forgot, it sells more scan tools! All this for clean air on such minute
magnitude is a joke .Before long they'll be outlawing beans in your diet.
Excellent explanation , but look at the what it took to get that far. I'm
sure you didn't just decide today this is how it works, They have no
standard to abide to, Over engineered troublesome designed systems .Gotta
be a better way.
Ken nomura: Great video Danner! i got a question, if the solenoid shorts, that could
possibly fry the driver on the pcm right? so in that case we would have to
replace the solenoid and the pcm? thanks a lot!
rafael valenzuela: Mr Danner i moved to san Diego Ca i would like to get the ScannerDanner
premium tell me how to do it the steps thanks
Chad Gardee: You can turn the key on off if you do not have a scan tool right on this
albdesi: SAVE YOUR SELF PAIN AND AGONY AND BUY A POWER PROBE!!
Garick Newtzie: awesome video. I feel smarter and I think you just helped me fix the
street35z: Good video.With my Pontiac Montana off and on my red wire only reads 4 to 5
volts when testing to ground. White wire reads 0 at all times with plug
out,not pin tested while still plugged in to solenoid which might be ok?
This is going to the purge solenoid,not the vent solenoid which is in a
very bad location to get to unless I roll the engine frontward after
disconnecting bone brackets on front.
la nave del sabor: hello sir great video. I have an 05 chevy tahoe and the purge solenoid
that sits on top of the engine is driving me crazy. I hear a loud ticking
noise constantly after the vehicle has warmed up. I have already replaced
the solenoid and the evac valve canister located underneath the truck by
the spare tire. is this test related to my issue??? and if so, how can I
replaced the driver or the control wire??? thank you??
Thee3rdprophet: Monkey Chart
yoyomin: you sure know what you are talking about!!! very helpful.
bouy4: Great class video, was looking for visual info on physical location, but
watched your entire video.
CMA124: Michel Jackson
Dave Gibson: Excellent video - great teaching style.
Thank you for posting.
abochavez: What if there is voltage on both sides of the connector unplugged key on. I
have had several of these evap codes on different vehicles and I frequently
see 3.5 volts on the ground wire unplugged not just the vent solenoid but
purge solenoids too. No shorts or opens. Computer disconnected. When
computer is connected the voltage shows 3.5 volts. The 12 volts supply wire
is always good. Bad computer right? I've also had 12 volts coming from both
wires of the connector unplugged on a fuel heater. Followed it to the
computer again. Am I missing something before calling this a computer?
Ras Bongo Natty Tafari: Great Lesson......where do u get ur wiring diagrams?
Lynx Star Automotive: Excellent diagnosis. Love how you confirmed the integrity of the driver at
the end by commanding it on and off. I always like to manually control
drivers whenever the option is available. I wonder if maybe you could view
the voltage on the control wire through the scan tool, while also
commanding it on/off. Of course, it is always important to understand what
is going on in a circuit. This vid did that
foxholewilly: Paul, one thing I'm wondering: Why was there NO ghost voltage on the
voltmeter when the lead was connected to the control-side terminal of the
vent solenoid? With the solenoid open, and the control driver off, wouldn't
that single piece of wiring harness just be an extension of the voltmeter
test lead going nowhere, and we would still see ghost voltage? What was
different at that point? Is the base of that driver transistor a current
path here? What am I missing?
ScannerDanner: no problem at all, glad you fixed it!
ScannerDanner: the test light is the load. most test lights will draw less current than
the solenoid itself would draw. you should always measure the current draw
of your test light before doing this kind of testing. most of the
incandescent bulb test lights draw about 200ma.
ScannerDanner: If you energize the solenoid with a test light, that just checks the
solenoid and the feed circuit. To test the control wire and the PCM driver
you must use a scan tool to turn the driver on or you have to meet the
conditions where the PCM will normally turn the driver on. That is the only
way. Of course you can use the test light in place of the solenoid for the
test, but the driver must be turned on and you cannot do that part with the
ScannerDanner: @foxholewilly When I say "doesn't support current flow" I mean no
measurable amount with our conventional meters and scopes. There is some
and it is in the micro amp range. I don't have anything that reads micro
amps, nor do I have the need to.
ScannerDanner: @ScannerDanner It is too easy using a power probe to apply the wrong
polarity to a circuit. I personal don't use one, nor do I feel the need to.
Just a regular old incandescent style test light is just fine for 99.9% of
driver testing that I showed in this video.
martin mejorada: In addition of after checking the control side and power side of the
circuit, you can energize the solenoid with the scanner and apply vacuum
with a hand vacuum pump. If the the vacuum doesn't hold then surely the
solenoid is bad. Btw, I purchased your book very awesome.
foxholewilly: @ScannerDanner Ok, I see it now. It must be the "voltage sensing circuit"
before the transistor in the pcm giving a path to ground (even though that
"sensing circuit" dosen't support "current flow"). Following the path here,
I guess it resembles having just two voltmeters connected to each other. I
think I'll try putting two meters in series and see what voltage they read
- will it be a negative .03v? This is fun. Thanks for your time, Paul.
ScannerDanner: i have a video on this.
contagiousFX: Using a test light to test computer circuit is not ideal correct?
ScannerDanner: Anytime my friend!
104snake: i have a p0446 code.can you help?
ScannerDanner: I'm sorry man, I don't think I can help any further over the internet. Too
bad you were not closer to Pittsburgh PA, I would be more than happy to
take care of you for free at the school.
Tim R: Thanks again for the great video.
ROWDY8780: Thank you for taking the time to try to help. It is greatly appreciated. :)
The car runs great but it has been a nightmare of electronic issues the
last few years; Worst of which, was trying to figure out what why the
wipers and radio quit (Solder joint cracked in BCM). It could just be time
to look at retiring it for something newer. lol I'll update you on what the
problem was; if I figure this mess out.
StealthShadow5: In the second test if the test light doesn't comes on its mean you have a
shorted to ground control wire. And is will be easy find the short because
that cable will have steady 12v from the jumper cable of the battery
positive. then it is a matter of search the voltage drop in the cable to
find the short. Well that what I think and again sorry for my English
ScannerDanner: use a t pin for the pcm connector the make yourself a long jumper wire with
alligator clips. be sure to insulate the end under the hood just in case.
also use a jumper wire for you voltmeter neg lead too. this way you don't
have to hold anything and you can focus on driving
Prabath Weera: Are there any insulateted t-pins where crocodile clips can be hooked up
safely and what are the best wire tapping tools.Thanks in advance.
felplay vina: Thank you Paul for the time to replay and thank for the update of your book.
ScannerDanner: you heard a click, that's good but you must also check the function of the
solenoid. you should be able to blow through it not energized and not be
able to blow through it energized. This is a normally open valve so by your
description of having trouble filling your tank, either the valve is stuck
closed or there is a blockage in the vent line
Robert Wood: Thanks brother
stingray300m: pedel really fast the rpms pulsate instead of rev up p1406 is the only code
and there is no carbon deposits on the valve and the pantal goes in and out
like it should no sticking and the omes reading is ok i have a good 5 volt
refrance over all the only thing i see wrong is the feed back voltage is
too high its supposed to be in the millavolts range like 12 millavolts idk
please check back with me
Dan Laabs: All I can say is Amazing!! This answered all my questions of why there was
constant 12 volts at the Solenoid,and it would not operate off the bench
and on the truck at idle!! Thanks ScannerDanner..
StealthShadow5: and the other option is instead of using the feed of the solenoid wire
using a cable that go from battery positive to the placed t-pin in the
control wire and check if the light bulb lights up. These 2 tests it can
perform and verify that there is a failure in the control wire right? Sorry
for my english :)
r8er4everd: Yes, BATT voltage and ground can be applied with the switch. And without
pushing the switch if the probe tip touches a grounded source, the light
will go green. But if it touches a voltage source it has a red LED that
lights. So in a sense PPIII and DMM sorta same. So any suggestions to a
good scan system that a work-from-home mechanic should look into? Local
part store has a OBD1/OBD2/ABS scantool,but it does no live data or
sel/relay acctivation only FF all for $500.Only 1 can find under 1K.
ROWDY8780: Sorry for delay. Been a long week. There are 2 harness connections at PCM
(Upper connection nearest windshield & lower nearest wheel arch). I didn't
find any solid white wires in the upper connection. The lower connection
has 2 solid white wires coming in and 1 off-white (No other markings,
stripes, etc...on any of them). Both of the solid white wires have 12V and
the off-white has 9.5+ (KOEO for all three wires tested). My scan tool
(AutoXray 6000) does not have bidirectional capability.
ScannerDanner: not sure off hand. I have at least two or three GMs with the linear EGR
valve with issues. maybe search EGR valve?
ScannerDanner: @fivefortyeye540i Thanks for the comment and the compliment!
Joe Hernandez: If you do more than three shakes on your lead you are just on vacation
ScannerDanner: what is the voltage with just the key on engine off
StealthShadow5: I mean continuity test*.two other options which come to mind are (can you
hear crazy but when you dont have the right tools you have to improvise)
put a t-pin in the ecm plug and disconnect the plug and place the test
light to ground battery and place it in the t-pin of the plug of the ecm
and then jump the 12 volt feed of the solenoid to the control wire and
check if the test light comes on. The only danger that I find this test is
if the control wire is shorted to ground will blow the fuse
Robert Wood: Like Paul said you can aggressively twist it with pliers, channel locks or
lightly adjusted vice grips. I replaced my 1993 3.1 recently and when you
get it out take a knife tip and snap out the o ring. There should be a
shaft from the oil pump that may or may not come out with the cap. Mine
did. Good luck.
ScannerDanner: It is what we call a dummy shaft distributor. It is still there to drive
the oil pump as the distributor used to do. It will come out. There is a
rubber o-ring type seal that is most likely hard as a rock. It is ok to get
aggressive with it.
Joe Riley: THE POWER PROBE 3 IS BASICALLY A VOLTMETER WITH A SET OF LEADS THAT YOU CAN
APPLY POWER OR GROUND TO ANY CIRCUIT AT THE TOUCH OF A BUTTON.ITS VERY
HANDY BUT YOU CAN DO THE SAME WITH A SET OF JUMPER WIRES IF WANTED. YOU
WILL GET IN BIG TROUBLE IF YOU DONT KNOW WHERE TO APPLY THE POWER OR
GROUND,THIS TOOL APPLIES FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE AND FULL GROUND.IF YOU DONT
KNOW HOW TO READ A WIRING DIAGRAM AND KNOW CIRCUIT DESIGN I WOULDNT MESS
WITH IT. I OWN ONE AND RARELY USE IT MAINLY I USE IT TOFINDSHORTS