MrSalsaspeed: Hi, my car is 1998 Trans Am 5.7L. I don't have any SES light. The issue is that after I drive the vehicle for a while specially in a very warm day(I live in FL) I can see a wet stain of fuel leaking from the fuel neck. If I pull the fuel cap off the gasket is wet. I have blow all the evap lines with air and they are no clogged. If there is an issue with the evap purge valve, the canister vent valve will I get a SES code? I put an used charcoal canister and vent valve but no change. any ideas?
ScannerDanner: You cannot see the control wire voltage on the scanner. At least not yet but that would be cool. I will not be surprised to see output solenoid control wire voltage listed on the scanner in the future. You can see the command on some but that doesn't tell the whole story. Thanks!
Gabriel Velazquez: Excellent diagnosis. Love how you confirmed the integrity of the driver at the end by commanding it on and off. I always like to manually control drivers whenever the option is available. I wonder if maybe you could view the voltage on the control wire through the scan tool, while also commanding it on/off. Of course, it is always important to understand what is going on in a circuit. This vid did that
TheGreatHorseman: The BARTOL MAGPROBE is the best device for instantly checking electrically operated solenoid valves. Goes down to 3 goss. You can test solenoid valves while the equipment is running, use it under water, in a vacuum, 40 below zero, and also in explosive areas. It is non-contact and very easy to use. Typically tests can be done in 2 seconds. Over eighty thousand have been sold, and is currently getting ready to go Global. The nice part is you don't have to be a technician to use this device.
ScannerDanner: awesome dude. Thanks for the feedback!
blinkskaterkc: Well in case anyone is curious, I fixed my problem. Of course there was a vent hose coming from the solenoid and when I pulled it off to inspect it I found that it was indeed clogged. With what you ask? Dead spiders and webs. Huhuhuh
blinkskaterkc: Thanks for the reply Paul. I took the vent solenoid off the car to bench test it. I'm holding it, and I gotta be honest, I don't it's the type that you can blow into to test. If ya type chevy cobalt 08 vent solenoid in google it'll show up as one of the first pics. It's cylindrical. Also, I should add the solenoid goes directly in the canister. There is no vent line that goes directly to the solenoid (from what I can tell).
ScannerDanner: you heard a click, that's good but you must also check the function of the solenoid. you should be able to blow through it not energized and not be able to blow through it energized. This is a normally open valve so by your description of having trouble filling your tank, either the valve is stuck closed or there is a blockage in the vent line
blinkskaterkc: Hey guys, I'm having a potential issue with my vent solenoid on my 08 chevy cobalt (P0446). Fuel pump shuts off on me as if the tank is full, but it's not. I checked the vent solenoid using the procedure in this vid. The feed wire has 12 V, and the control wire is a pull-down style and it's getting 12V with the computer driver off and engine ON. Furthermore, I pulled the control wire to ground manually and I could hear the solenoid clicking. So vent solenoid is good. Where do i go now???
bettylane1984: Yeah I been there....good thing the service writer was my wife!!! LOL!
Frankie Valenz: ScannerDanner thanks for all the work you put into these videos. I love my Modis scanner a lot more when seeing your videos. You remind me of my tech school engine performance/electrical instructor. question: Does this evap solenoid testing procedure apply with checking an a/c compressor flow valve for a 2008 toyota camry 2.4?
StealthShadow5: In the second test if the test light doesn't comes on its mean you have a shorted to ground control wire. And is will be easy find the short because that cable will have steady 12v from the jumper cable of the battery positive. then it is a matter of search the voltage drop in the cable to find the short. Well that what I think and again sorry for my English
StealthShadow5: and the other option is instead of using the feed of the solenoid wire using a cable that go from battery positive to the placed t-pin in the control wire and check if the light bulb lights up. These 2 tests it can perform and verify that there is a failure in the control wire right? Sorry for my english :)
StealthShadow5: I mean continuity test*.two other options which come to mind are (can you hear crazy but when you dont have the right tools you have to improvise) put a t-pin in the ecm plug and disconnect the plug and place the test light to ground battery and place it in the t-pin of the plug of the ecm and then jump the 12 volt feed of the solenoid to the control wire and check if the test light comes on. The only danger that I find this test is if the control wire is shorted to ground will blow the fuse
StealthShadow5: If I don't have a scanner that has that function of energize the solenoid I would have that make an omhs test in the control wire. what I mean is to use a t-pin in solenoid plug and a t-pin in the ecm plug. Right?
MassMechanic: I've watched everyone of you videos twice. You are not completely correct in your diagnosis. You say if you disconnect the harness to the computer and the test light stays lit, then it is not the computer. Here is a scenario both short to ground on signal and short through driver; fix the short on signal. Now we get really confused. Variables, variables, variables. I know that it is highly unlikely, but I guarantee it happens and will throw someone for a loop.
ScannerDanner: I actually did laugh out loud
Joe Hernandez: If you do more than three shakes on your lead you are just on vacation 17:25
SuzukiKid400: Excellent video. You're a good teacher, you know your stuff, and you use your electronic white board with great proficiency. Keep up the good work.
jean527: Could U explain me about d Error mesaje in the Speedometer Cluster of Chevy Colorado 2008? I got any kind ramdonly mensaje alert and the cluster display the ERROR mensaje. I put my scanner and all display alerts are fake (BRAKE, FLUIDS, TPMS, PASSCODE etc.. i mean thas fine...
Thanks a lot.
P.D. Sorry for my englis i hope will you can understand me.
roxy1769: would this code cause the vehicle not to start or bog when driving
ROWDY8780: Thank you for taking the time to try to help. It is greatly appreciated. :)
The car runs great but it has been a nightmare of electronic issues the last few years; Worst of which, was trying to figure out what why the wipers and radio quit (Solder joint cracked in BCM).
It could just be time to look at retiring it for something newer. lol
I'll update you on what the problem was; if I figure this mess out.
ScannerDanner: I'm sorry man, I don't think I can help any further over the internet. Too bad you were not closer to Pittsburgh PA, I would be more than happy to take care of you for free at the school.
ROWDY8780: ok, I misunderstood and will worry with the P1441 issue later.
I also think there is another misunderstanding, the PO446 code was already set during the volt meter test (it set during during the 3rd drive cycle like it always does after clearing the codes). I only meant that there was a new code set (in addition to the PO446) that has never been set before, while doing this test.
ScannerDanner: No, what I am saying is with the P0446 code not happening (or temporarily fixed), the system was able to complete its monitoring of the system and when it did its check on purge flow it found another problem. So what I am saying is you have two separate issues. IF you fix this P0446 code, you will then continue to set the purge flow code. Unless of course that one is intermittent too.
You need to focus on pins contact at the PCM for that vent solenoid first.
ROWDY8780: Couldn't be reversed vac lines (as there is only one line going to Purge Valve).
Only repairs ever done to the car (other than general maintenance) is water pump (2010), purge solenoid (2008), EGR valve (2008), and Cat/muffler 3 times. I did all the repairs repairs except exhaust work. No vac lines have been loose except the purge solenoid (& now the vent valve).
If I am understanding you correctly, the purge solenoid will also cause this PO446 code!??
If so, I'll replace the solenoid again.
ScannerDanner: having the voltmeter hooked up wouldn't change anything other than potentially the male/female pin contact at the ECM. You may have a loose pin that was temporarily tightened up with your t-pin or whatever you where using.
This may have allowed the system to finish its other checks. So it sounds like you also have a purge flow issue. Most common cause for this code is reversed vacuum hoses on the purge solenoid under the hood or a sticking purge solenoid
ROWDY8780: Cleared the codes a few days before hooking up the volt meter.
No changes detected in volt meter (14+ volts) during 5 days hooked up.
New code thrown while hooked up to volt meter and also first time this code had ever come up (P1441 Evap Control System Flow During Non-Purge).
Cleared codes after removing volt meter and only code to reappear is the original PO446.
ScannerDanner: nice work! that is exactly the test you needed to do. keep watching it as it flags the code. look for changes. keep me posted. hard to call the computer as being bad
ROWDY8780: Got the volt meter rigged up and took the car for a test run (approx 40-50 miles ride...city/hwy/interstate).
Voltage stayed between 14-14.6 volts at all times.
Also tried wiggling and pulling the white wire to check for voltage changes (KOEO) but did not find any issues.
I left the meter hooked up and will continue to monitor for the next couple of trips just in case the PCM didn't "cycle" or in case I missed anything while in traffic.
ScannerDanner: use a t pin for the pcm connector the make yourself a long jumper wire with alligator clips. be sure to insulate the end under the hood just in case. also use a jumper wire for you voltmeter neg lead too. this way you don't have to hold anything and you can focus on driving
ROWDY8780: Thank you for your help.
I'll see what I can come up with on that option also.
Will have to find a length of wire that will extend into the car to make that happen, as the leads on my voltmeter are only a couple of feet long and hard wired into the unit.
I'll let you know what I find asap
ScannerDanner: How about watching that control wire voltage at the PCM during a test drive. Rig up your voltmeter to that wire and put the meter inside your truck. See if it ever changes. IT should only change when it is commanded on by the PCM.
ROWDY8780: Every time the codes have been cleared, I have to drive through normal test cycles (usually 2-3 trips) & then the MIL comes on (It never has "corrected" itself, or "set immediately" after clearing codes).
This one code has been an ongoing battle for over 2 years now. It never was really an issue before; but planning to move soon, & emissions testing is a requirement there.
I will check the wire for loss of power on my next day off (if weather permits) give an update
ScannerDanner: is this code immediate or do you have to drive it for awhile to show up again? I still think you have a wiring problem and you need to pull and wiggle the harness while monitoring vent solenoid control wire voltage at the PCM connector. It should stay at 12v the whole time.
ROWDY8780: Power does drop to zero (At PCM) on this white wire when solenoid is disconnected.
ScannerDanner: Ok let's make sure that is the the correct white wire. unplug the vent solenoid and it should drop to zero volts
ROWDY8780: *Update* I had a little more time to fool with the car today and also found a PCM pinout last night to help me along. (There was a white wire that I overlooked on the top [Blue] connector but that connection is irrelevant)
On the #2 pin on the bottom [Clear] connector the white wire DOES have steady 12 volt power (KOEO)
ROWDY8780: Sorry for delay. Been a long week.
There are 2 harness connections at PCM (Upper connection nearest windshield & lower nearest wheel arch).
I didn't find any solid white wires in the upper connection.
The lower connection has 2 solid white wires coming in and 1 off-white (No other markings, stripes, etc...on any of them). Both of the solid white wires have 12V and the off-white has 9.5+ (KOEO for all three wires tested).
My scan tool (AutoXray 6000) does not have bidirectional capability.
ScannerDanner: ok, next step is to measure the white wire at the pcm. there should be 12v there too.
Or if you have a bidirectional scan tool, command the vent solenoid on and look for a voltage drop on the white wire.
ROWDY8780: I DO have12 volts on the harness (Pink AND white wire KOEO).
ScannerDanner: It is not a leak code. When you see "control circuit" in a code it is either the wiring, computer or solenoid that is at fault. These are known for wiring issues at the connector. Tug on them to reveal a break, sometimes the insulation can even look fine but the wires are broken inside. If you have a voltmeter, with the key on, backprobing the connector (solenoid plugged in) you should see 12v on both wires
ROWDY8780: I'm receiving mixed information about the exact issue I am dealing with on a 2001 Camaro (3800 V6). I am receiving a p0446. Shop told me that I need to replace the vent valve Solenoid (located on the gas tank, by the canister). I dropped the tank, replaced Solenoid (old one bench tested fine but I replaced it anyway) Cleared codes, drove and SES came on again (P0446).
Shop says "vent control circuit code", haynes manual says "vent system performance", other techs say "leak in system". Help!!
Younis Mark: That is a great Video, Thank you Sir.
Robert Wood: Like Paul said you can aggressively twist it with pliers, channel locks or lightly adjusted vice grips. I replaced my 1993 3.1 recently and when you get it out take a knife tip and snap out the o ring. There should be a shaft from the oil pump that may or may not come out with the cap. Mine did. Good luck.
ScannerDanner: It is what we call a dummy shaft distributor. It is still there to drive the oil pump as the distributor used to do. It will come out. There is a rubber o-ring type seal that is most likely hard as a rock. It is ok to get aggressive with it.
silvester gamma: hello sir,i have a qstion.i have a gm car 88 2.8 v6 n its leaking alot alot of oil from what looks like the area where older cars used to have the distributer,this car uses coils though.its got a fork and bolt holding it down.seems to be above the cam and it moves when turned looks like a cap insttead of distributer.tried to pull it up but its hard.can it be removed ?maybe uses a gasket or seal n broke thats why it leaks oil?any info helps thanks good day.
ScannerDanner: You will never hurt a driver with a digital voltmeter.
Thanks for your comments!
Dan Laabs: I then checked the defective unit with a olm meter and its open, as the replacement unit is complete.Hope I didn't hurt the Driver as you stated ,When I checked for voltage at the connector with a volt meter.
Dan Laabs: All I can say is Amazing!! This answered all my questions of why there was constant 12 volts at the Solenoid,and it would not operate off the bench and on the truck at idle!! Thanks ScannerDanner..
Hair Do: Thanks for the tip. I do know it's hard to earn money. But it is much better than working minimum wage at mcdonolds. Being an hair stylist does get tips and I end up making decent money. Plus it allows me to be creative sometimes and make customer's dream come to reality.