James T: Thanks for the video. I was really surprised how much difference the first two steps (height and angle) made. I'd spent some time adjusting the L & H screws, which are the only things the Shimano manual tells you to tweak, but was still getting rough changing. An easy adjustment of height and angle and it all works again as it used to. Thanks for the clear explanation, much appreciated.
Glen Knight: I've just finished building my second bike with Di2 gearing on it. For some reason I cannot get the indexing right on this one.
when adjusting using the e-tube software it goes right down to 14 before its in the correct gear. This doesn't allow for a smooth gear change throughout the range. To remove all the noise and get a good gear change I need to push the bike moves to gear 4 but the e-tube software still reports gear 5. This of course prevents me from moving in to gear 11 once I complete the setup.Any ideas how to resolve this?
Arejay fortyseven: love to buy one of those t shirts
Caleb Uy: Where should the rear derailleur be (gear) when doing the front derailleur? because i noticed that the front derailleur auto trims/adjusts when the rear derailleur is shifted to the lowest gear or highest gear. im using dura-ace 9070.
EngineerByDay: For some reason my 6870 di2 is getting chain rub when I'm in the 4 ring from top in the back and big chainring in the front. Advice for this problem?
Dan Lustig: After running the Ultegra Di2 for almost two years the chain dropped twice today. I was in high gear. Small chain ring and 2nd and 3rd from the smallest cog. Once putting the chain back in place I am hearing an unusual click when riding in most gears. Also when in the smallest cog the chain rubs against the inside of the inside of the crank. I've been told by my LBS that its normal. I would appreciate some advise.
dr.Muscles_news: Hi, again, quality instructions. I myself a ride ultegra 6870di set up (on two bikes, one Specialized Venge and a Canyon Speedmax CF). Both bikes have the same strange issue, which my lbs could not resolve (they are terrible though). With my chain on the biggest front cog, the drivetrain starts to make a grinding noise when the chain is on the 5th smallest cog in the rear. This noise becomes increasingly louder if I shift to the 4th and 3th smallest cog. The drivetrain runs smooth agains if I shift further to the 2nd and smallest cog. The gearing seem to be perfectly adjusted, shifting smoothly both in the front and in the back (I adjusted it multiple times on the fly, but finetuning does not eliminate the grinding noise).
I took both bikes to the mechanic after which the issues occurred. On the tri bike, a full ultegra 6870 set up was installed already, but the mechanic just changed the crankset to a 172.5mm crank arm. On the specialized venge, there was an FSA crank installed and a normal 10-speed mechanical ultegra drive train. There, the whole setup was exchanged for a ultegra 6870di.
EDIT: I think I managed to identify the issue: the front derailleur can not be adjusted downward (which was necessary due to a switch from a double to compact), because of limited adjustment possibilities (canyon speedmax cf users, beware!). Now, with a little bit a tweaking and "suboptimal" adjustment (adjust upperlimit screw of front derailleur a bit as to move the front derailleur a bit more outward that what is advised - I still need to take it for a spin to see whether the chain is kept on the drive train), I managed to reduce the friction between the chain and front derailleur. Things are still not running entirely smoothly tho.
Is there a solution for this issue? Ie, how can I modify the installation so that I can bring the derailleur another 3-5mm down?
P T Withington: Great vids! Question: I replaced the Shimano 54-42 standard crank with a Quark/SRAM compact crank on my Di2 (50-34). When in the small chain ring and shifting to the outer cogs, the chain rubs against the derailleur cage. I've checked the spacing and alignment per your video, but no improvement. Seems like the cage may just not be long enough. Is the cage just the wrong shape for the compact crank? Any suggestions?
Art's Cyclery: @Ken Sato: Sounds like you have a chain line problem, which means that tweaking the Di2 setup won't help (I'm assuming your have your low limit as tight to the chain as possible in the lowest gear). You need to either move the cassette outboard (e.g. using a different wheel where the cassette sits further outboard) or move the chainrings/driveside crank arm inboard. If you have a BB30 crank, that could be your best option. With other crank standards, it's tough.
Ken Sato: I have a 6870 setup (front 52X36, rear 11-32 with GS cage) works great except I get some light chain rub on the front derailleur when I am in the middle sprockets of the cassette. Doesn't look like there is anyway to adjust the auto-trim of the front derailleur when using the E-tube project software.
Barbara Arnold: Really great video. Thank you! Really helped me understand why my Di2 was having shifting/dropped chain issues. Problems?---solved!!
Gi tri: I have an issue on my small to big ring shifting. I recently switch from Shimano 6750 to a Rotor 3D crank w/ BOR chainrings.
When I shifted from small to big w/ the Shimano, it worked flawlessly. Now, it takes about 2 revolutions for the big chainring to "pick up" the chain. It causes the chain to rub against the BB shell and it's not a good sound at all.
What gives? Solution? Thanks!
Brent Mcdonald: Thank you for this perfectly done video. It solved my problem. I applaude how you kept it nice and short.
Art's Cyclery: It sounds like the problem is with your shifter body not engaging the cable. De-greasing/cleaning and re-lubricating the shifter body will hopefully solve the problem. We have a video coming out on Friday that will go over exactly that. Check back Friday or subscribe to our channel and learn how to fix your issue.
caliljv: Thanks for the video. Have a problem with my front derailleur. have shifter brake, 24 speeds, when i move left brake lever, it does not engage. wire is fine, front derailleur moves manually, Is there an adjustment for brake shifter lever so it engages. What could be wrong? Is the brake lever damaged or front derailleur?
Thanks for help
Art's Cyclery: Yes, you have it right Martin.
Cycle Tech UK: Hi Daniel, thanks for the video, When you are adjusting the stop screws, should you be in the low gear on the rear when adjusting low on the front and be in the high gear on the rear when adjusting the high stop on the front?
Can't see on this Video Martin
Art's Cyclery: The problem is associated with the rear derailleur, it could be either of the following (or a combination of both). It is more likely an indexing problem as Di2 will over shift to give the chain an extra push to get up to the larger cog, then move back slightly to reduce noise. It sounds like the over shift is what is pushing the chain to the largest cog and when it is in the normal position it wants to be in the 2nd cog. Part of the problem could also be the low limit screw is set too far in.
Art's Cyclery: This could be a variety of things, check to make sure the derailleur is positioned 1-2mm above the large chainring, that the cage is parallel with the chain, and that when the bike is in the lowest gear (small chainring in front, and large cog in rear) the low limit is set so that the derailleur cage is just barely not touching the chain.
Kash Hussain: Hi there. Great vid. I have a question. New to Ultegra Di2. First ride yesterday. Very smooth except I noticed if im in the top gog on the back and the bottom on the front and wish to change up to the top gog on the front the derailleur moves to the right but the chain tries to go up and fails so ends up staying on the bottom. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
How to Adjust Shimano Di2 Front Derailleurs5
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