Art's Cyclery: @Ken Sato: Sounds like you have a chain line problem, which means that
tweaking the Di2 setup won't help (I'm assuming your have your low limit as
tight to the chain as possible in the lowest gear). You need to either move
the cassette outboard (e.g. using a different wheel where the cassette sits
further outboard) or move the chainrings/driveside crank arm inboard. If
you have a BB30 crank, that could be your best option. With other crank
standards, it's tough.
Glen Knight: I've just finished building my second bike with Di2 gearing on it. For some
reason I cannot get the indexing right on this one.
when adjusting using the e-tube software it goes right down to 14 before
its in the correct gear. This doesn't allow for a smooth gear change
throughout the range. To remove all the noise and get a good gear change I
need to push the bike moves to gear 4 but the e-tube software still reports
gear 5. This of course prevents me from moving in to gear 11 once I
complete the setup.Any ideas how to resolve this?
Caleb Uy: Where should the rear derailleur be (gear) when doing the front derailleur?
because i noticed that the front derailleur auto trims/adjusts when the
rear derailleur is shifted to the lowest gear or highest gear. im using
P T Withington: Great vids! Question: I replaced the Shimano 54-42 standard crank with a
Quark/SRAM compact crank on my Di2 (50-34). When in the small chain ring
and shifting to the outer cogs, the chain rubs against the derailleur cage.
I've checked the spacing and alignment per your video, but no improvement.
Seems like the cage may just not be long enough. Is the cage just the
wrong shape for the compact crank? Any suggestions?
Dan Lustig: After running the Ultegra Di2 for almost two years the chain dropped twice
today. I was in high gear. Small chain ring and 2nd and 3rd from the
smallest cog. Once putting the chain back in place I am hearing an unusual
click when riding in most gears. Also when in the smallest cog the chain
rubs against the inside of the inside of the crank. I've been told by my
LBS that its normal. I would appreciate some advise.
EngineerByDay: For some reason my 6870 di2 is getting chain rub when I'm in the 4 ring
from top in the back and big chainring in the front. Advice for this
Arejay fortyseven: love to buy one of those t shirts
dr.Muscles: Hi, again, quality instructions. I myself a ride ultegra 6870di set up (on
two bikes, one Specialized Venge and a Canyon Speedmax CF). Both bikes have
the same strange issue, which my lbs could not resolve (they are terrible
though). With my chain on the biggest front cog, the drivetrain starts to
make a grinding noise when the chain is on the 5th smallest cog in the
rear. This noise becomes increasingly louder if I shift to the 4th and 3th
smallest cog. The drivetrain runs smooth agains if I shift further to the
2nd and smallest cog. The gearing seem to be perfectly adjusted, shifting
smoothly both in the front and in the back (I adjusted it multiple times on
the fly, but finetuning does not eliminate the grinding noise).
I took both bikes to the mechanic after which the issues occurred. On the
tri bike, a full ultegra 6870 set up was installed already, but the
mechanic just changed the crankset to a 172.5mm crank arm. On the
specialized venge, there was an FSA crank installed and a normal 10-speed
mechanical ultegra drive train. There, the whole setup was exchanged for a
EDIT: I think I managed to identify the issue: the front derailleur can not
be adjusted downward (which was necessary due to a switch from a double to
compact), because of limited adjustment possibilities (canyon speedmax cf
users, beware!). Now, with a little bit a tweaking and "suboptimal"
adjustment (adjust upperlimit screw of front derailleur a bit as to move
the front derailleur a bit more outward that what is advised - I still need
to take it for a spin to see whether the chain is kept on the drive train),
I managed to reduce the friction between the chain and front derailleur.
Things are still not running entirely smoothly tho.
Is there a solution for this issue? Ie, how can I modify the installation
so that I can bring the derailleur another 3-5mm down?
Barbara Arnold: Really great video. Thank you! Really helped me understand why my Di2 was
having shifting/dropped chain issues. Problems?---solved!!
Brent Mcdonald: Thank you for this perfectly done video. It solved my problem. I applaude
how you kept it nice and short.
Ken Sato: I have a 6870 setup (front 52X36, rear 11-32 with GS cage) works great
except I get some light chain rub on the front derailleur when I am in the
middle sprockets of the cassette. Doesn't look like there is anyway to
adjust the auto-trim of the front derailleur when using the E-tube project
Gi tri: I have an issue on my small to big ring shifting. I recently switch from
Shimano 6750 to a Rotor 3D crank w/ BOR chainrings.
When I shifted from small to big w/ the Shimano, it worked flawlessly. Now,
it takes about 2 revolutions for the big chainring to "pick up" the chain.
It causes the chain to rub against the BB shell and it's not a good sound
What gives? Solution? Thanks!
Kash Hussain: Hi there. Great vid. I have a question. New to Ultegra Di2. First ride
yesterday. Very smooth except I noticed if im in the top gog on the back
and the bottom on the front and wish to change up to the top gog on the
front the derailleur moves to the right but the chain tries to go up and
fails so ends up staying on the bottom. Any suggestions would be greatly
Art's Cyclery: Glad you liked the video. It doesn't matter what gear the rear derailleur
is in when aligning the front derailleur because trim won't affect
alignment. I prefer to have the front derailleur shifted into the small
ring and then adjust it so that the outside of the cage is parallel with
the big ring.
George Rodgers: Where should the rear derailleur be (gear) when doing the front derailleur?
PS Nice video! very informative :)
Art's Cyclery: It is possible to bend the aft part of the front derailleur cage, however I
would recommend being very careful when doing this. Also, this may not fix
your problem entirely as it is nearly impossible to get the Osymetric
chainrings to shift flawlessly.
Andrew Johnson: Hi, I am wondering if you can help. I have a Di2 9070. When I shift to the
smallest chain ring at the front and to the largest chain ring at the rear,
within 5 seconds the rear derailleur automatically shift to the next lower
gear. Is this a realignment issue? Thanks,
Steve Webb: I have Osymetric chainrings and have always had issues with them rubbing on
the cage (Or the outer ring) when using the small ring this leads to very
limited gear options. Is it possible to widen the cage on a Di2? And if I
can widen the cage will the Di2 be able to move the cage enough to
effectively switch from the large to the small chainring? i assuming that
the measurement taken from the top of the chainring is still 1-3mm from the
high point (TDC) on the Osymetric? Thanks
Cycle Tech: Hi Daniel, thanks for the video, When you are adjusting the stop screws,
should you be in the low gear on the rear when adjusting low on the front
and be in the high gear on the rear when adjusting the high stop on the
front? Can't see on this Video Martin
Art's Cyclery: Sorry for the slow response, I have been out of town. It sounds like your
derailleur might be positioned too high. Make sure that the bottom edge of
the outside of the derailleur cage is 1-3mm above the large chainring when
the derailleur is shifted into the small chainring. Rotational alignment
may be off as well. Make the outer cage parallel with the big ring. The
last thing to check is your limit screws because these can change the way
the front derailleur will automatically trim.
Art's Cyclery: It sounds like the problem is with your shifter body not engaging the
cable. De-greasing/cleaning and re-lubricating the shifter body will
hopefully solve the problem. We have a video coming out on Friday that will
go over exactly that. Check back Friday or subscribe to our channel and
learn how to fix your issue.
Art's Cyclery: Yes, you have it right Martin.
Art's Cyclery: This could be a variety of things, check to make sure the derailleur is
positioned 1-2mm above the large chainring, that the cage is parallel with
the chain, and that when the bike is in the lowest gear (small chainring in
front, and large cog in rear) the low limit is set so that the derailleur
cage is just barely not touching the chain.
caliljv: Thanks for the video. Have a problem with my front derailleur. have shifter
brake, 24 speeds, when i move left brake lever, it does not engage. wire is
fine, front derailleur moves manually, Is there an adjustment for brake
shifter lever so it engages. What could be wrong? Is the brake lever
damaged or front derailleur? Thanks for help
Emma Lorenzen: Daniel I have a question: I have a Di2 system. When driving in the 7-8-9
gear (i.e large chainring in the front) the chain chafes against the cage
of the front derailleur due to the angle of the chain. At the extremes i.e
lowest and highest gear it is fine.
Art's Cyclery: The problem is associated with the rear derailleur, it could be either of
the following (or a combination of both). It is more likely an indexing
problem as Di2 will over shift to give the chain an extra push to get up to
the larger cog, then move back slightly to reduce noise. It sounds like the
over shift is what is pushing the chain to the largest cog and when it is
in the normal position it wants to be in the 2nd cog. Part of the problem
could also be the low limit screw is set too far in.
How to Adjust Shimano Di2 Front Derailleurs4.8
out of 5