LiterACola707: if someone is trying to learn how to braze please do not learn from this
video. go to your local hall, they will show you even if you aren't union.
this is bad for business
elsanababiche: bad ubication of welder need nore space to weld down the fitting definitly
Lawrence Mcconnell: Where is the nitrogen purge? How about heating the inner tube first?
71dembones: Hey Gregc! Thanks for the info! I am aware of of the properties of sil-phos
rod as such material is one of my everyday consumables. "Wrong" comment?
The video IS about sil-phos brazing copper pipe! However, if you are silver
soldering copper to copper (ie stay brite 8 for refrigeration components-
TXV, solenoid valve, etc) a white brazing flux is used. We would use 56%
silver braze for steel to copper connections (ie hot gas and liquid line
connections on condenser water barrels) also with flux
practicalman45: What is the name of the filler material rod? Is that stuff called Sil-Phos?
TheSuperchuck83: So I'm learning this for work. I know they're gonna train me but I'm
wanting to not look like a complete idiot. . .any tips for a total newbie?
jetstream123: Clean joint not all gobbed up. Nice job
James Toll: Terrible ...obviously not union!!! Hahaha my 8 year old son could do better.
71dembones: with brazing, you only use flux when joining dissimilar metals (steel to
Casey Thornbury: I use brazing instead of solder for refrigeration...... cheap is not
good..... cheap is cheap
matt mayo: yes you can!
gregc2222: Another issue I have, is that you say above that you use Harris stay bright
8 with a white brazing flux? Are you sure? Stay Brite #8 is a Tin "silver
bearing" soft (plumbing) solder with a liquidus a bit over 500F. White
borax brazing fluxes aren't effective until you're well over 1000F. OTOH,
white borax flux *is* the right thing to use with a high silver content
"hard solder" or silver braze like the 56% you mentioned, or anything in
the Bag-N series of alloys.
Gary Ino: WTH? No flux ? Way too much heat bro ....
hiEnuff: Focus the heat on the fitting then let the heat pull the filler into the
Charles Remensnyder: That was nice brazing I thought the flame size was a little over kill but
you surely knew how to use it. Great finishing looking!:)
gregc2222: I was replying to your comment of "You only use flux when joining
dissimilar metals" and that's wrong. You're implying that no flux is needed
to join similar metals, and that's wrong. Try doing SS to SS, or brass to
brass, or Al to Al, or Ni to Ni without flux and see how far you get. The
*only* instance where it *seems* you can get away with not using a flux is
copper to copper using a phosphorus rod. And in that situation, the P
serves the purpose of a flux. So flux is always used in brazing.
Clown Whisper: Oh and what gas did you use
gregc2222: Yeah, he used too much rod, but I liked the fact of the higher heat input.
It got the brazing rod fully liquid which allowed it to be fully drawn into
the joint. Too often I see filler metal just blobbed up around the edge of
the fitting, and not enough down inside the joint itself.
jamar winston: Gd job you jus got the pipi ruby red hot i see ..it seems to me it almost
Clown Whisper: Could you do that with copper wire or copper rod?
Patrick Menser: Bad job..too much heat. You got the braze all over the outside of the
fitting. You put enough braze on that joint for 3....lol
71dembones: OK You obviously know more than me; I guess I'll just go back to work
brazing and such:)
71dembones: Obviously not union! LOL I've seen some things that obviously ARE union,
too my friend!!! :)
WeBeJamminToo1: Crispy2870, you're right on the money! Why would you waste your money and
time doing this? Solder it dude, solder is cheap!
gregc2222: Yes, you should sand the pipe down for brazing, not just soldering. But too
many techs think you can do without. The end result is a joint where the
braze filler metal is only on the outside. A properly brazed joint should
draw the filler metal down inside by capillary action. And dirty pipe is
not going to do that properly. Regardless of whether you're brazing or
soldering(and soldering is actually just a lo-temp form of brazing.)
practicalman45: Can I just use my oxy-acetylene torches for this? And should the flame be
carburizing, neutral, or reducing?
ruellersss: You don't need to sand the copper down for brazing that's only for
soldering and when you braze you never want to have the copper so close to
the vice,if you do the heat from the torch goes straight to the vice not
the copper so it will take longer for the copper to heat up and you don't
get a even draw into the joint, and you use way to much braze
Chris Carr: this video was made for a joke right ?
gregc2222: Wrong, you need flux for any kind of brazed joint. The only apparent
exception is when copper is joined to copper, it can be done with a filler
metal that contains phosphorus. Any BCuP series material. But the
phosphorus itself performs the fluxing action. On the other hand, any other
kind of brazing rod, even one with a high silver content, will require a
separate flux if the rod contains no phosphorus.
Cert: Building stuff is always in my family gene. My dad is a new york auto technician and taught me everything I need to know about cars. Now I sell car parts online to suppliment my income. So it does help when there's good guidance.