Daren Sefcik: Awesome...! The drift method worked perfect and it did not damage my dust
cover...thanks so much..!!
John Northrup: I want to say thank you Pete!
I bought an expensive 20v Lithium Impact gun for this job and many others.
Long story short, the gun had 0 effect on that bolt, lol! (~350ft-lbs tq)
So I had recalled your video, and was saved by a Dodge exhaust stud with
the nut still on. (I miss you Shelby Daytona!) Using torch heat and your
jam method, it's off now, with only slight bending of the dust cover. Now
moving on to removing the VC and timing cover, carefully.
ToyotaLandCruiser: Heat from a torch if u got one is sorta the same as the last one good
Louden Swain: Thanks for the help. I tried to bump the starter and that was a no go, so I
resorted to the wedge method. My '84 has the larger holes in the balancer.
A 1/2" drive extension bar that was 5" long worked great for a wedge. I
also removed the battery which gave me more room. It allowed me to hang
from the 4 foot long cheater bar. Trying to break it loose from underneath
the truck I just couldn't get enough leverage.
Tony Cha: What about near 1000 ft lbs of torque. My Lexus is about there. So hard to
find 3/4 sockets in stores. Got a 1000 ft lbs impact wrench didn't work was
leaking so I got a new one about to try again. Tap it, pb blast soaked it,
broke a 1/2 drive breaker bar and a 3/4 to 1/2 impact adapter to use a 22mm
1/2 socket. Broke a chain wrench. Crank bolt from hell. Idiot previous
mechanic must have use weld tite instead of lock tite and used a 1400 ft
lbs impact to tighten it.
Alexis Betancourt: Tks good video
ethrty320i: watched this video for a crank bolt on Toyora 2E engine, really didnt want
to use the starter bump method, but decided to in the end, and definately
helped loosen it up. and its off now, I dont have an impact/rattle gun so
coltcomphbar: Why could you not just use the bolt you welded the socket? It would just
stick out a little. Nut it wouldn't hurt anything
hp11208: i woulda just use an air gun or set up the a breaker bar and start the
smokestack56: Once I forgot to loosen crank bolt while engine was in truck,It was so
tight I thought It would never come off.As a last effort I put 3/16 nylon
rope in cylinder through spark plug hole to keep engine from turning over
and then put 3ft 1inch pipe over my breaker bar and gave it one hard fast
lift on pipe.And it let loose with a loud crack at first I thought I broke
degrande707: Snap-On MG725 Impact Gun.... ;) Hasn't failed me yet.
steviebm6: Sound like very great methods. I will have to try a few today. I have a
Cressida with a very stubborn bolt. Thanks for the video
WheeliePete: @1tonyota hahaha, man I didn't even pick up on that...I put a nail through
my foot today so I'm still a little loopy on pain meds. lol...
Jesse Fullerton: If your not pulling the head but already have the valve cover off, i have
always stuck a long 3/8's extenstion through the holes in the timing chain
cam gear and used a long ass breaker bar... always worked for me
Josellyn Moreno: Very detailed videos. Thanks!
griffintready: what about pulling the oil seal is there any special techniques that u have
Nathanael John: Hi. My daughter has a 1993 2wd Hilux cab chassis with 2.8 diesel 3L motor.
I'm replacing the water pump but cant get the bottom pulley off to remove
the timing belt cover so that I can get to the water pump. I have the
radiator out and all the belts off already. How do I remove the bottom
pulley off so that I can remove the timing belt cover? Cheers
cartoonist1975: Thank You for taking your time and making this video. I do have a 22re
inside a 85 Celica so this is great !
serchmarc: code of that air filter?k&n?
Mechanic1307: I did a lot of reading before trying the 'scary' starter bump method.
Bungeed the breaker bar to the passenger side frame member, disconnected
the coil wire, and just Barely tapped the starter. The bolt broke loose
with a pop, no damage to anything (including the tools). Just enough to
break the torque. Thinking of making a crank holder tool by welding up an
old air conditioner pulley to about 14" of 3/4" round stock. I'll bolt it
to the balancer with 4- grade 8 bolts.
hermanbrown13457: Mine is what i call a stacked pulley.i have power steering on mine. Power
steering is the front. A/c is the middle. And alternator is the last.
1tonyota: @WheeliePete i got it man but in the video u told us to ask.lols
MrJrakk: Actually had it bust a breaker bar doing that starter bump once lol
Michael Brand: What pulley puller did you use? I'm having trouble finding a puller that'll
fit the 22re pulley for the crankshaft
WheeliePete: The 5th gear/hard brake method only works if your clutch and pressure plate
are in VERY good shape. Other wise, you'll just just slip the clutch on the
WheeliePete: @hp11208 Yeah, but that doesn't always work...trust me. And for sure don't
work on a dead engine. ;-) Most air guns won't even touch that bolt when it
gets frozen. Plus, if you are trying to get that thing out when it's in the
truck there isn't enough room to get a big enough air gun in there with the
radiator in the way.
mariobarraza903: Great information
aznazguy: @WheeliePete Thanks Pete, but as I mentioned it is an automatic (torque
plate not flywheel) so I can't use the high gear/brake method to hold the
crank fixed. Not sure what to do. Might have to rent/borrow/buy/fab a
pulley holding tool?
Christopher Ladd: I have a 90 Toyota Pickup with the 22R and I have the famous oil leak where
the head meets the timing cover so torn it down today and guess what? Can't
get the Crank bolt out. The motor is still in the truck. I tried driving
the 5/16 punch in and I bent it and the bolt wouldn't give. I even tried
the bump start deal and the bolt still wouldn't break so I'm lost.
MagicAyrtonforever: Also on engines with no keyway or woodruff.. you will freak your valves up
if the pistons clash as crank goes the other way.
theroadkilledchicken: I pulled one off yesterday and it took 800+ ft. lbs. to break it loose:(
Michael Elliott: well couple things come to mind if a good 1/2" drive impact gun does not
do the job, get a bigger gun say a IR model 261 3/4" drive impact
gun(14.5lbs) they are compact and MEAN!! 1100(pounds per foot) of nut
busting torque. I use this model all the time at my shop for stubborn bolts
and if it gets really nasty, I bust out the Eagle Industries 1-1/2" Square
Drive Air Impact Gun 3500(pounds per foot) and this dude is heavy about
50lbs and that does the job (most of the time)
WheeliePete: Yeah, I'm not a huge fan of the starter bump method. that's a pretty
massive bolt in the 22R series to shear off though. Good point though. I
can't imagine what a pain in the ass it must have been to get that broken
one out of there.
WheeliePete: I broke a cam sprocket once doing it that way. They are a lot thinner
material than the crankshaft pulley. You break the cam sprocket and you
have to replace the whole timing system because the chain, cam sprocket,
and crank sprocket all wear together, you can't just replace one piece of
the system... Using the cam sprocket to hold the crank still will work, but
you just have this risk of making the job a LOT bigger...
giantAsFan: I have a 95 Tacoma 2.4 I need help replacing the motor mounts & trans mount
please help, searched all around no VIDs ons this problem
WheeliePete: @griffintready I actually just remove the entire oil pump body to replace
the front main oil seal. It's a lot easier to remove the seal and to
install it if the oil pump (in which the front main seal is located) if
you're not having to work around the crankshaft sticking out through the
middle of the seal.
Christopher Ladd: Thanks, one step ahead of you. Meant to post back last night that I finally
got it out. I heated the heck out of it and I used a powerful jumper box
hooked to the batt to give it some extra power when I bumped the starter
over and the bolt broke loose. Thanks for this video by the way.
WheeliePete: Yes the front pulley is bolted to the other two.
hermanbrown13457: The last one is the one that rattles. ((Alternator)).
TrueBlueEG8: heating it could help a little, but it i was to advise on any method, it
would be ,remove the starter, or a flywheel cover, and lock the flywheel, i
dont like the idea of using the oil pump body as the stopper for a bolt
Charli Doan: Panama sell this Japanese engine only 30,000 mile from Tokyo very
cheap.$500-$800 US dollars.
aznazguy: Man I just went through this on a 22R I had pulled. I bought a SnapOn
impact that didn't work. I tried bolting the starter to it to crank it with
the motor on the ground, nope. I ran the starter off 24 volts with two
batteries but no dice. Finally took a piece of perforated sheet metal
"stereo strap" material, and bolted the torque plate (automatic) to the
block and a breaker got it off with relative ease. Now how to torque it
with the motor in place?
01sircharles: Why not use heat w/out welding bolt head to socket.? I'm just getting ready
to do head gasket on my truck and looking for some time saving tips. I've
got an impact that will twist wheels studs off.( I think 750 lbs) Hard to
imagine that would not be enough. It's only supposed to be 115 lbs. right?
WheeliePete: At this point you are probably going to have to heat the bolt up with a
torch to get it out. I actually had one that was on there so tight I had to
weld a socket to it. The heat from welding loosened it right up. You might
try removing the starter and sticking a prybar in to lock the flywheel, but
you might break flywheel teeth...
WheeliePete: Generally you're doing this in the vehicle and it can be difficult to get a
BIG impact gun in there if the radiator is in. Heat will work as long as
you don't catch oil on fire (you're usually going into the front end to fix
a leaky main seal. You'll also need someone to stand on the brake in 4hi
5th gear to keep from back rolling the engine even with the impact. It's
not a quesiton of 115 ftlbs, it's 25+ years of time to sieze up...
BoneHeadOffroading: Great video man. Good explanation on all the methods. Helped a lot :)
GAR A: MAN THATS A LOT OF WORK FOR STABURN NUT SO I HAVE TO REMOVE THE WHOLE
ENGINE JUST GET OUT ONE NUT
phil sarti: I had my battery already removed, and some starter wires had been removed
since they were routed right through the intake manifold, so I couldn't use
the starter bump method. I just used TWO short 3/8ths extensions through
the top two holes in the cam sprocket. A little WD40, a breaker bar , 17mm
deep socket and one big twist got it off pretty easily.
WheeliePete: It was a cheap-ass Pacesetter. I'd rather not ship it, but if you're local
you can pick it up -$20 (e-mail me) I have used Thorley and LC Engineering
headers in the past. The LC Engineering ceramic header for the 22R series
is sweet, but it runs around $400.
WheeliePete: The gods of any project require a blood sacrifice and I'm building a fence
so of cousre I stepped on a nice big ol' nail. Earned me a trip to urgent
care, but at least the construction gods are appeased.