mds19238: Thank you & God bless.
monster1175: from Argentina thank you and keep the goog work
Chris Knerr: sorry about the break-up. Can only type 500 words at a time in these
comments. Take a sharp knife and using the straight edge a guide, cut a
deep slice. The deeper the better - 1/16" to 1/8" . When you start to
remove wood, it won't splinter or tear out wear it owuld be bad news too.
Now all the wood between the slices has to go. I use chisels for the most
part. you can use the barrel scrapers, router, I have mill for metal work.
Whatever works for you.
Daniel Hedkvist: Hi Great videos man! do u know how to carve patterns in wood? would love a
tutorial on that and what tools to choose etc.
Chris Knerr: Need a little more information or a translation. Make the rifle from raw
steel, repair, make a wood gunstock for one, not sure what you to do.
Chris Knerr: wow, time to catch up with comments. I too occasionally resort to my mill
for a barrel channel. It is fast. Especially when facing a 4 bore with a
barrell > 1" in diameter! Sorry about the link. Did you guys it working?
Good advice with the remote mike. Thanks, I will look into it. and at last
- i will be braking up inletting parts into a lot of very short videos.
Barrel will be first. Take care, Chris
Chris Knerr: check out the other videos. they are titled according to what is in them.
They are" Inletting the magazine", inletting the barrel", etc........ have
not completed that rifle yet. So more shaping to the outside coming.
joske de melkboer: Great Video!!
Carlos: I am sorry...English is not my parent language..But ı liked your videos
very very much.. I will translate all of your videos.. I want to buy hand
made bolt action rifle.. And my favourite rifle is Mauser...For example
Mauser 98k.. If you want to make it, how many months can you make a Mauser
supermotardmario: i use a metal mill to for some parts, but i feel like having more feel to
detail with hand tools. wel as for shaping the outside.ive just ordered a
new piece of walnut haha, if you know what i mean, it was good practice
tough if it comes in, ill cut out the blank and make the slide and trigger.
my little dremel might come in handy for the trigger mount, i used to dril
a few straight holes next to eachother and then tapping out the remains,
but hey it works thx a million for the advise
supermotardmario: @supermotardmario the link deforms in my browser , the /1285/ changes to
/12-85/ , so u just have to take the - away to see the picture
supermotardmario: if you start on a blank to cut out the barrel groove, and if you would make
a vid of it, that would be great, im subscribed so ill see it comming.
supermotardmario: img864.imageshack.us/img864/1285/img028i.jpg this is it , my new gun ,
finished this week , what do you think of it ? , it stil needs an
adjustable recoil pad, a strap , and a bipod , but the woodwork is finished
, you can be honest. your vids helped me allot !
Chris Knerr: thanks you! Wish I could cut to the chase as fast as Mr. Potterfield does.
Glad the videos helped. There will be more coming, please be patiant. Take
frank carnavil: Hi Chris, thanks for the videos. You are a true craftsman, and the best of
what you do. I am thinking about doing a stock for my friends Winchester
rifle soon. I will let you know when I start the work and if I have any
questions. Thank you. Frank from Pa.
Chris Knerr: @DanielDalarnaSweden yup, in the plans. It will be one of the later ones to
do. The carving will be patterns typical of antique muzzle loaders. Not the
modern rifle hunting scenes. For them, you'll have to get a video or books
on your own. Sorry, i don't them.
meteormeten: hi, thanks for your great videos! looking forward to future videos
James Pappas: what a wealth of information! what method do you use to remove wood from
the blank where the barrel, receiver, and trigger fit?
Chris Knerr: yup, website is dead for the moment. Server company went belly-up and
nerver said a thing to anyone. Moved to a new place when the subscription
ran out. Now have to rebuild the site....oh boy, oh joy :( Thanks for the
nice comments! Chris
tehfeckerer: Wanted to say thank you for taking the time to make this series, you're an
excellent teacher and a great inspiration. I'm going to attempt to make a
stock in the near future for a friend and this was an invaluable
introduction and its always nice to learn little tricks, particularly liked
the one of working out equal distances! Thanks again and I'll certainly
have an ear to the ground for future developments from you. Take care.
Chris Knerr: we will work around the language problems..... makes things interesting!
Using a Mauser 98 action, or a modern version with all the metal work and
carving a gunstock from walnut or maple takes 6 months minimum, usually
more. It is not starting one day and keep working until it is done. The
finish I put on the gunstock takes 6 weeks. After the finish is checkering,
that can take another 1 or 2 weeks. It is not a fast process, but hopefully
worth the time when a client gets it. Hope this helps?
Caleb Early: Thanks for all the info im hoping to make a stock for my 17 hmr. I am
planing on making a test fit stock out of a couple 2X6 till Im satisified.
supermotardmario: @supermotardmario img864.imageshack.us/img864/1285/img028i.jpg this is it ,
other link doesnt work aperentrly
supermotardmario: @cknerr no problem !its american wallnut , i like it allot, i like all
kinds of guns , my hunting gun is a normal stock, but i can apreciate a
nice thumbhole stock to. if i make another one , it will be a conventional
one. so its american walnut, after the final sanding, i used birchwood
casey sealer & filler, and after that a few layers of tru-oil , i dont know
if this is the right way, but it really looks good i have birchwood casey
wallnut stain to now, but it doesnt really need it
Chris Knerr: Thanks guys! There are many more coming.....however slow.
supermotardmario: @supermotardmario i ment chisel lol
Chris Knerr: Then using a pair of calipers and compass (yup, the circle thingy) measure
one inch incriments down the receiver and barrel. Each inch measure across.
Use the compass points to measure the width off the calipers and transfer
to the wood. I usually have to stick a sharp pencil point into the tiny
dent so I can see it better. When all is done, you should be able to lay a
metal yard/meter stick along most of the marks. I show that in one of the
tool videos. Make sure the straight edge is on the
Chris Knerr: now that is not an easy thing to get correct. Hopefully you have not shaped
the outside? To get some cast off - lowers felt recoil a lot and shoves the
sights under your face to line things up a whole easier. If barrel probably
has a taper. Ignore that for the moment. (important later) Find the widest
part of the metal (barrel or receiver). Measure 3/16 or so from the side
and make light line. If you are right handed, make it from the left side,
if left handed - mark from the right side.
supermotardmario: hey , im building my own gunstock as wel , ive got myself , an (overpriced)
piece of american walnut, the crafting itself turns out verry nice , but
how do you make the round groove where the barrel fits in ? do you form it
in with a shizzle ? or do you need to machine it in ? i hope you read this
fast very nice video`s u got ! learned allot
flamesfromblazer: Great videos. . just a small piece of advice ( and definitely not trolling
you , bro ! ) - maybe use a remote microphone rather than the camera one ,
so as we dont hear all the creaking ,tapping and clicking. Time's not going
slow whilst we are all waiting for the next video to be posted . . .haha !
Simon Grundström: great vid´s. your website is down if you didnt know
Chris Knerr: now I see the image - thanks for emailing it to me. You like the unorthodox
style. With the type of maple you used, that really works! use any stains
to enhance the grain?
Antony George: hello , this is a great video . thanks for posting this and educating us .
god bless you
Carlos: How much time can you make a Mouser 1891 bolt action rifle ????
killthebetrayer: Very instructive video!
Chris Knerr: darn - typing this before I finished my first cup of coffee. Didn;'t finish
- the straightedge should be on the outside of your lines. You will have to
move it around. Now to continue - The tricky part will be getting the
receiver in vertically and not have a huge gap in the wood around it. The
trigger when inletted from the bottom has to line up - so be careful.
Really hope I can get a video made soon on this. Best of luck! Chris